In the heart of Burgundy’s Côte de Nuits, where the rolling hills whisper secrets of ancient limestone and the air hums with the perfume of wild violets, lies a wine that dances like firelight on a summer evening. Domaine Leroy’s Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru “Aux Brûlées” is no mere bottle—it’s a symphony of terroir, a testament to unyielding passion, and a liquid poem etched in the soul of Pinot Noir. For connoisseurs who seek not just excellence but transcendence, this wine from the legendary hands of Lalou Bize-Leroy ignites the senses, leaving an indelible glow long after the last sip fades.
To understand “Aux Brûlées,” one must first trace the fiery lineage of Domaine Leroy itself. The story begins in 1868, when François Leroy founded Maison Leroy, a modest négociant house in the quiet village of Auxey-Duresses, nestled amid the golden vineyards of Meursault. Over generations, the family wove deeper into Burgundy’s fabric: François’s grandson Henri forged an unbreakable bond with Domaine de la Romanée-Conti in 1942, acquiring a stake that would echo through the centuries. But it was Lalou Bize-Leroy—co-manager of DRC and a visionary force—who truly set the domaine ablaze. In 1988, disillusioned by the constraints of corporate winegrowing, she severed ties with her négociant roots and poured her fortune into acquiring the storied vineyards of Domaine Charles Noëllat. Thus, Domaine Leroy was born, a biodynamic beacon committed to letting the earth speak unfiltered through its grapes.
Lalou, now in her ninth decade, remains the domaine’s indomitable spirit. A pioneer of biodynamic viticulture—certified by ECOCERT since inception—she treats her vines not as crops, but as living entities in cosmic harmony. Horses till the soil to preserve microbial life, lunar cycles dictate the harvest, and every intervention is a gentle coaxing rather than a command. This philosophy yields minuscule yields—often a mere 20-25 hectoliters per hectare—and prices that reflect the elixirs they produce. Domaine Leroy’s holdings, a mosaic of just 22 hectares across Burgundy, include jewels like Richebourg and Romanée-St-Vivant, but “Aux Brûlées” stands as a Premier Cru paragon of elegance and intensity.
Nestled in the commune of Vosne-Romanée, the “Aux Brûlées” vineyard—its name evoking “the burned” lands scorched by medieval fires or perhaps the sun-kissed ferocity of its slopes—spans a prime slice of the hillside. Domaine Leroy commands three meticulously tended plots totaling 0.27 hectares at the northern edge, seamlessly blending into the neighboring Grand Cru Les Beaux Monts. Here, the terroir shifts like a chameleon’s skin: shallow, pebbly soils of limestone marl and clay cradle old vines (some over 60 years), their roots delving deep into fractured bedrock for minerals that infuse the wine with electric vitality. The exposition—southeast-facing at 250-280 meters altitude—bathes the grapes in morning sun while shielding them from harsh afternoon rays, fostering a microclimate of poised ripeness. Burgundy’s capricious weather is tamed here, yielding clusters of small-berried Pinot Noir that burst with concentrated essence: black cherry laced with raspberry whispers, veiled in a haze of smoky earth.
Pour a glass of “Aux Brûlées,” and the seduction begins. Across vintages, this wine unfurls with a garnet hue that catches the light like embers in twilight. The nose is a revelation—a beguiling bouquet of ultra-pure blue and black fruits, violets, and rose petals, interwoven with exotic spices, star anise, and a whisper of iron from the stony soils. In the 2000 vintage, tasters exalt its “dark cherry fruit, Vosne spice, minerals, violets, and dark spices,” a pure, serious elixir with high acidity and profound depth that saturates the palate in weightless grace, evoking black tea umami and subtle sweetness. The 1998 offers a lush counterpoint: red and black cherries mingle with rhubarb, sweet baking spices, and mint, delivering a mouth-coating richness, superb grip, and a finish that lingers like a lover’s farewell—persistently long, nuanced with each evolving sip. Even in the tensile 2014, freshness reigns with edgy tannins and brooding tension, its crisp palate founded on tensile precision that clams up just enough to promise decades of evolution.
What elevates “Aux Brûlées” beyond its peers is Leroy’s alchemy in the cellar: whole-cluster fermentation for textural silkiness, aging in mostly new oak (up to 100% for top cuvées) that amplifies rather than overwhelms, and a hands-off élevage that honors the vintage’s voice. The result? Wines of savory classicism—savory and structured, with silky tannins and a layered finish that pairs divine with roasted duck glazed in cherry reduction or wild game under a veil of truffle. Critics rave: 95+ points are commonplace, with community scores soaring into the high 90s, affirming its status as a “wow wine” of musk-scented perfume and beguiling depth.
In an era of industrialized viticulture, Domaine Leroy’s “Aux Brûlées” reminds us why Burgundy endures as the pinnacle of Pinot Noir. It is not just wine; it is the burn of history, the pulse of the earth, and the quiet revolution of a woman who dared to farm by the stars. For those fortunate enough to secure a bottle—be it the ethereal 2009’s exotic spice and smoke or the poised promise of more recent releases—savor it slowly. In its flames, you will find not destruction, but rebirth: an eternal spark in the glass.