Sauta Roc

A young organic estate on rare volcanic soils in Pézenas — schist, limestone, basalt — building a quiet case for terroir over reputation.

Introduction

Domaine Sauta Roc is a micro-estate of eight to nine hectares situated in the village of Vailhan, in the northern reaches of the AOP Languedoc Pézenas denomination, in the Hérault department of southern France. It is operated by Bertrand Quesne and Laura Borrelli, an Italian-French couple who arrived in 2016 from Tuscany. They are the sole domaine in the commune of Vailhan.

The estate sits at the convergence of several geological formations — schist, limestone, and basalt — that define the broader Pézenas terroir, one of the more geologically distinctive sub-zones of the sprawling Languedoc appellation. The domaine works organically (certified Agriculture Biologique), vinifies with native yeasts and minimal intervention, limits sulphur additions, and uses no oenological additives. Production is small — likely under 30,000 bottles annually across the full range — and the wines are distributed through natural wine channels, specialist cavistes, and a handful of international importers.

What makes Sauta Roc structurally interesting is its position at a nexus of several currents in contemporary Languedoc: the quiet reassertion of Pézenas as a serious terroir within the broader appellation hierarchy; the arrival of trained outsiders who bring external reference points (in this case, Tuscan viticulture) to undervalued southern French parcels; and the continued viability of very small-scale, non-interventionist winemaking in a region historically dominated by cooperatives and volume production. The estate is young, but its raw materials — old vines on exceptional soils, a relatively dry and continental microclimate, and an unusual diversity of grape varieties — give it a platform that outstrips its short track record.

History

The vineyard land that Sauta Roc now occupies was previously farmed as Domaine Rocaudy, a small property in Vailhan run by the Oury family. Pascal Oury, who also operated Domaine Oury-Schreiber in Marieulles-Vezon in Moselle (Lorraine), acquired the Vailhan vines in the early 2000s. His daughter has described Rocaudy as a second project that ran parallel to the family’s Moselle estate. Under Oury’s stewardship, Domaine Rocaudy produced wines under the Coteaux du Languedoc appellation (the predecessor to today’s AOP Languedoc), with cuvées such as “Rocaillou,” “Tour de Magie,” and “Scintilla” documented from the 2004 through approximately 2010 vintages. A Vin de Pays d’Oc dessert wine called “Canicule” also appeared. Contemporary tasting notes describe these as dark, structured reds — tannic, powerful, and marked by their appellation character — often unfined and unfiltered.

Pascal Oury died unexpectedly in the weeks following the 2012 harvest. His family ultimately decided to sell the Languedoc vineyard to ensure the continuity of their primary domaine in Moselle. The Vailhan vines were thus available when Bertrand Quesne and Laura Borrelli, then working in Tuscany, were searching for a property in southern France.

In 2016, Quesne and Borrelli took over the former Rocaudy vines and founded Domaine Sauta Roc, establishing it as an EARL (Exploitation Agricole à Responsabilité Limitée) under the name EARL Quesne Borrelli, with a cellar in an old building at 3 rue de Trignan, Vailhan. The estate name, “Sauta Roc,” appears to derive from Occitan — the regional Romance language of southern France — likely meaning something akin to “jumping rock” or “rock that leaps,” consonant with the rugged, stone-strewn landscape of the northern Pézenas foothills.

The first vintage was 2016, and the couple’s initial red cuvée — In Treccio — received a one-star note from the Guide Hachette des Vins in the 2019 edition, an unusually strong debut for a brand-new estate. The 2017 vintage was again cited in the 2020 edition. Since then, the range has expanded steadily to include several white cuvées and an orange wine, consolidating the estate’s identity as a white-leaning producer in a historically red region.

Ownership

Sauta Roc is owned and operated directly by its founders, Bertrand Quesne and Laura Borrelli, through an EARL. There are no outside investors, corporate parents, or cooperative affiliations. The couple handles viticulture, vinification, and commercialisation themselves from their base in Vailhan.

This structure — a small, two-person EARL — is both the estate’s greatest asset and its most obvious vulnerability. It ensures absolute consistency of vision and eliminates the governance ambiguities that plague larger or multi-generational estates. However, it also means that Sauta Roc’s continuity is entirely dependent on the physical capacity and personal commitment of two individuals. There is no succession plan visible from the outside, no second generation in place, and the estate’s cellar — described by one distributor as a “chai de poupée” (a doll-sized cellar) — reflects the constraints of a lean, self-funded operation with limited capital reserves.

The couple’s background in Tuscany is a relevant biographical detail insofar as it informs their stylistic orientation. Italian winemaking — particularly the artisanal, low-intervention end of Tuscan production — tends to emphasise varietal transparency, site expression, and restraint in cellar handling. This sensibility is legible in the Sauta Roc range, which favours clean fermentations, limited extraction, and a preference for freshness over power.

Vineyard(s)

Holdings and Structure

Sauta Roc currently farms approximately eight hectares (some sources report nine), distributed across fourteen separate parcels. This fragmented parcel structure is significant: it means the estate works multiple soil types, exposures, altitudes, and microclimates within a compact geographical area, all within the commune of Vailhan. The parcels support at least eleven distinct grape varieties — an unusually broad palette for such a small domaine.

Soils

The vineyard geology reflects the broader Pézenas terroir, which is defined by its volcanic heritage. The Pézenas sub-zone occupies a triangular area in the northern Hérault, bordered to the east by the Hérault river and sheltered to the north by the Montagne Noire. Its soils have been shaped by ancient volcanic activity, which left behind basalt flows, consolidated volcanic ash, scoria, and fluvio-volcanic deposits layered atop older sedimentary formations.

At Vailhan, the dominant soil types are:

• Schist — metamorphic rock of Ordovician age, exposed by erosion on the higher slopes. Schist soils are typically well-drained, mineral-rich, low in organic matter, and heat-retentive. They tend to produce wines with tension, minerality, and a characteristic smoky or flinty aromatic signature — what distributors of Sauta Roc describe as an “empreinte fumée” (smoky imprint).

• Limestone — calcareous soils that contribute freshness, structure, and aromatic lift. Limestone subsoils are found throughout the Pézenas zone and help moderate the otherwise warm, dry Mediterranean climate by retaining moisture deeper in the profile.

• Basalt — the volcanic soils that give the Pézenas denomination its most distinctive character. Basalt is iron-rich, dark-coloured, and heat-retentive, yielding wines of concentration and depth. The presence of basalt in the Languedoc is relatively rare, shared only with a few other zones (notably around the Lac du Salagou and the volcanic cones near Neffiès and Caux).

The coexistence of these three soil types within a single small estate is unusual. It gives Sauta Roc access to a range of textural and aromatic registers — the tension of schist, the freshness of limestone, the concentration of basalt — that most Pézenas estates can only achieve by working with a single dominant geology.

Climate

The climate at Vailhan is Mediterranean but relatively continental compared to coastal Languedoc zones. Pézenas is one of the driest terroirs in the Hérault department, receiving less rainfall than either the Terrasses de Béziers (more maritime) or the Terrasses du Larzac (more continental and higher altitude). Altitude varies between roughly 20 and 300 metres across the denomination. The landscape is characterised by sparse garrigue vegetation, exposed rock, and copses of white oak — a dry, austere setting that imposes natural stress on the vines and tends to concentrate flavours in the fruit.

Plant Material

The eleven grape varieties planted across the estate include both red and white cultivars:

Red: Grenache Noir, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Carignan White: Muscat à Petits Grains, Muscat d’Alexandrie, Bourboulenc, Vermentino (Rolle), Roussanne, Viognier

The emphasis on white varieties is deliberate and notable. Most estates in Pézenas are overwhelmingly oriented toward red wine production — the AOP Languedoc Pézenas denomination itself only recognises reds. Sauta Roc’s decision to plant and work extensively with white grapes is a structural choice that differentiates it from its neighbours and reflects the couple’s conviction that the schist and limestone soils of Vailhan have strong potential for white wine. Several of the white cuvées are bottled under the broader AOC Languedoc or IGP Pays d’Oc designations, or as Vin de France, since the Pézenas denomination does not accommodate them.

Farming

The estate is certified organic (Agriculture Biologique) and has been since its founding. Viticulture is adapted parcel by parcel, with manual harvesting. The scrubby, wind-exposed terrain and the low rainfall of the Pézenas zone are naturally favourable to organic farming — disease pressure is generally lower than in wetter, more humid parts of France.

Wine(s)

Philosophy

Sauta Roc’s winemaking philosophy centres on terroir transparency, varietal authenticity, and minimal cellar intervention. The stated aim is to transcribe the “terroir effect” as faithfully as possible, producing wines that are described by their makers and distributors as “franches et racées” — frank and racy — without oenological products and with limited sulphur. Fermentations use indigenous yeasts exclusively. The cellar is small and modestly equipped, reflecting a deliberate preference for simplicity over technological elaboration.

The Range

The current portfolio includes approximately six to eight cuvées, with the balance tilting toward white wines — a rarity for a Languedoc Pézenas estate.

White Wines:

• Va’Pensiero — 100% Muscat à Petits Grains, bottled as IGP Pays d’Oc. After manual harvest, the grapes are direct-pressed; fermentation proceeds with native yeasts in stainless steel tanks. The wine does not undergo malolactic conversion and is aged in stainless steel. This is a dry, aromatic Muscat intended to express floral, tropical, and spice-driven character with mineral tension. Alcohol is typically around 12.5%. The name — Italian for “fly, thought,” the famous chorus from Verdi’s Nabucco — signals the couple’s Italian roots.

• In Bilico — Bourboulenc and Vermentino blend, bottled as AOC Languedoc. The cuvée’s name means “in balance” or “in suspense” in Italian, and it honours the Bourboulenc grape, a variety more traditionally associated with La Clape but which, on the schist and limestone of Vailhan, produces wines of breadth and florality. Tasting notes reference citrus zest, juniper, garrigue, and almond. This cuvée is the estate’s highest-rated white on community platforms, with a Vivino average of 4.2.

• Peira Levada — Roussanne (50%), Vermentino (40%), Viognier (10%), bottled as AOC Languedoc. The name means “standing stone” or “menhir” in Occitan — a reference to the ancient megaliths of the region. This is a rounder, more textured white than In Bilico, with greater weight and a broader aromatic frame (florals, exotic fruit, minerality).

• In Ganno — 50% Muscat à Petits Grains, 50% Muscat d’Alexandrie. This is an orange wine (skin-contact white), made by macerating the whole harvest for eight days. Fermentation takes place in oak barrels, and ageing continues in glass demijohns (damigiane). It is one of the estate’s more experimental offerings and the most direct expression of Quesne and Borrelli’s Italian influence — the orange wine tradition having deep roots in northeast Italy and Georgia. Vivino average of 4.2.

Red Wines:

• In Treccio — Syrah and Grenache, bottled as AOP Languedoc Pézenas. The name means “intertwining” in Italian. The two varieties are vinified separately with indigenous yeasts in stainless steel, then blended and aged in oak barrels. This is the estate’s flagship red — dense, mineral, structured, with dark fruit, vanilla, garrigue, and a tannic-elegant texture. Production has ranged from 2,000 to 3,000 bottles per vintage. The Guide Hachette noted the 2016 for its intense colour, aromas of blueberry, black cherry, and spice (especially vanilla), with good amplitude and a long finish. The 2017 was praised for its harmonious blending of varieties and terroirs, with blackcurrant and sour cherry on the nose, a fleshy palate, and supple tannins. Recommended serving temperature: 15–17°C, with ageing potential of several years.

• Codoliera — Syrah (60%) and Grenache (40%), bottled as AOP Languedoc Pézenas or IGP. This is a more immediate, fruit-forward red aged in tank — a more accessible entry point than In Treccio, designed for earlier drinking.

Additional cuvées that have appeared on specialist platforms include Esposadis, a varietal Grenache, and À la delle Étoile, though detailed production information on these is limited.

Style and Coherence

Across the range, the wines share several characteristics: clean, precise fruit expression; a thread of mineral tension (attributable to the schist and limestone); moderate alcohol; and a preference for freshness over extraction or richness. The whites are often more compelling than the reds — not because the reds are deficient, but because the whites occupy a less crowded niche and express the terroir with particular clarity. The estate’s emphasis on aromatic and semi-aromatic white varieties (Muscat, Bourboulenc, Viognier, Vermentino) in a zone dominated by red production is a genuine distinguishing feature.

The use of Italian cuvée names throughout the range (Va’Pensiero, In Bilico, In Treccio, In Ganno, Codoliera) underscores the couple’s cultural identity and creates an internal naming logic that references Italian musical, linguistic, and oenological traditions while firmly grounding the wines in their Languedoc terroir.

Evolution

Sauta Roc’s history since 2016 is too compressed to speak of dramatic evolution. The estate is still in its first decade and has not undergone the kind of generational or philosophical shifts that mark longer-lived domaines. However, several directional trends are observable:

Range expansion

The initial vintages appear to have been focused on a tight core of reds (In Treccio, Codoliera) and one or two whites. The portfolio has since expanded to include the orange wine In Ganno, the single-varietal Muscat Va’Pensiero, and additional white blends, reflecting a growing confidence in the white-wine potential of Vailhan’s soils.

Growing recognition in the natural wine circuit

Sauta Roc’s presence on platforms like Raisin (a natural wine app) and its distribution through specialist agents such as Vin Vrai in Québec indicate that the estate has found its primary audience among natural-wine-oriented consumers and professionals. This is a conscious positioning choice that affects everything from sulphur levels to distribution strategy.

Cellar practice stability

There is no evidence of major equipment upgrades, shifts in vessel choice, or changes to vinification protocols. The estate appears to have settled early on its core methods — stainless steel for whites, some barrel ageing for reds, demijohns for the orange wine — and maintained them with consistency.

Organic certification continuity

The estate has been certified AB from the start, so there has been no conversion period or transition from conventional farming — an advantage in terms of soil health and vine balance from the outset.

Position

Within AOP Languedoc Pézenas

The Pézenas denomination covers approximately 1,500 hectares across fifteen communes north of the town of Pézenas. Annual AOP Languedoc production across the full zone is around 60,000 hectolitres, but less than 5,000 hectolitres carry the more restrictive Languedoc Pézenas designation. Yields for AOP Pézenas are capped at 45 hl/ha (versus 50 hl/ha for generic Languedoc reds).

Pézenas is an exclusively red-wine denomination. The principal grape varieties allowed are Grenache, Syrah, and Mourvèdre (minimum 50% combined, with each individually capped at 75%), alongside Cinsault and Carignan. The volcanic basalt soils that distinguish the zone give Pézenas reds a signature of silky tannins, concentration, and mineral depth that sets them apart from other Languedoc sub-zones.

Within this context, Sauta Roc occupies an unusual position. It is among the smallest estates in the zone, one of the few with certified organic farming from inception, and the only domaine in Vailhan. Its most notable structural anomaly is its emphasis on white wine — roughly half the range falls outside the Pézenas denomination entirely, since white Pézenas does not exist under the current cahier des charges. This means that Sauta Roc’s whites and orange wines must be bottled as generic AOC Languedoc, IGP Pays d’Oc, or Vin de France, regardless of their terroir specificity.

Peer Group

The relevant peer group includes other small, quality-focused estates in the Pézenas denomination: Les Aurelles (one of the most acclaimed producers in the zone, working with basalt soils near Neffiès), Domaine de l’Aster (whose cuvée “Vitis Basaltica” foregrounds the volcanic terroir), Font des Ormes (an organic/biodynamic estate on basalt in Caux), Domaine Allegria (organic, near Caux), and Villa Tempora (a recent arrival, also working schist, limestone, and basalt). Several of these estates share Sauta Roc’s profile: small, organically farmed, run by motivated outsiders or younger-generation vignerons who arrived in the zone in the 2000s or 2010s.

What distinguishes Sauta Roc within this group is its multi-varietal, white-leaning portfolio and its explicit connection to Italian winemaking culture. While Les Aurelles operates at a higher price point and with significantly greater critical recognition, and Font des Ormes has a longer track record with biodynamic viticulture, Sauta Roc’s range of soil types (schist, limestone, and basalt on a single estate) and its breadth of grape varieties give it an unusual palette that few Pézenas neighbours can match.

Market

Distribution and Availability

Sauta Roc’s wines are distributed through a network of specialist cavistes, natural wine bars, and small importers. Notable distribution points include: Vin Vrai (Québec, Canada — private import agent for the SAQ), several natural wine shops in France listed on the Raisin platform, specialist online retailers such as Clos des Millésimes (Bordeaux-based), Wildeman Wijnen (Netherlands), and Vinothentic (Switzerland). The estate also participates in natural wine fairs and salons across Europe.

This distribution profile is typical of a small, natural-wine-oriented Languedoc domaine: geographically diffuse, weighted toward on-trade and specialist retail, and without the structured négociant or Place de Bordeaux distribution that would confer secondary-market liquidity.

Pricing

Retail prices are modest. Va’Pensiero is available at the SAQ (Québec) at approximately CAD $36 (including agency fees); Peira Levada at a similar level. In France, retail prices through specialist online merchants appear to range from roughly €12–20 per bottle, depending on the cuvée. In Treccio, as the flagship AOP Pézenas red, likely commands a slight premium. These are not wines priced for speculation or secondary-market activity; they are priced for consumption.

Secondary Market

There is no meaningful secondary market for Sauta Roc. Production volumes are too small, the brand is too young, and the wines are not reviewed by the major international critics (Parker/Wine Advocate, Jancis Robinson, Vinous, etc.) whose scores drive auction and resale activity. The wines do not appear in any major auction database.

For collectors, this means Sauta Roc operates entirely in the primary market. Its value proposition is terroir quality and artisanal authenticity at an accessible price, not investment return or resale liquidity. The comparison set is not Clos de l’Obac or Prieuré de Saint-Jean de Bébian, but rather the broader constellation of talented micro-domaines across southern France whose wines reward careful attention and early acquisition but do not participate in the speculative economy of fine wine.

Conclusion

Domaine Sauta Roc is a very young estate built on older, geologically exceptional vineyard land, run by two committed owner-operators with a clear stylistic vision and no outside capital. Its strengths are structural: the diversity of its soil base (schist, limestone, basalt), the unusual breadth of its varietal palette, the integrity of its organic farming from day one, and the coherence of a range that prioritises freshness, varietal expression, and terroir fidelity over market fashion or critical positioning.

Its vulnerabilities are equally structural. The estate’s survival depends entirely on two individuals with no visible succession plan. Its tiny production limits both revenue and commercial leverage. Its most distinctive wines — the whites and orange wine — cannot benefit from the Pézenas denomination because the appellation only recognises reds, forcing some of the estate’s most interesting work into less commercially visible regulatory categories. Its cellar infrastructure is minimal, constraining both production growth and vintage management flexibility. And its market position, while well-suited to the current appetite for natural wine, is vulnerable to shifts in consumer fashion that could redirect attention toward other regions or styles.

The broader trajectory, however, is promising. Pézenas is a sub-zone with genuine geological distinction — the basalt-schist-limestone triumvirate is rare at a global scale — and it remains significantly undervalued relative to more celebrated Languedoc denominations like Terrasses du Larzac or Pic Saint-Loup. As the appellation’s reputation grows, estates with strong terroir credentials and early organic commitment stand to benefit. Sauta Roc, as the sole domaine in Vailhan and one of the few working all three of the zone’s major soil types, holds a distinctive position that cannot easily be replicated.

For the serious collector or professional, Sauta Roc is not a trophy acquisition but a terroir study — an opportunity to observe, vintage by vintage, how a young estate with strong raw materials and a clear philosophical orientation develops its voice on soils that have barely begun to be understood.