Gallico Vinum
Newsletter I March 29, 2026
Hospices de Nuits Adds a Tenth Premier Cru to Its Domain
Les Perrières joins the Hospices de Nuits portfolio as its tenth Premier Cru, alongside two AOC Villages parcels, marking the institution's most significant expansion in years.Krug's Third Clos: A Pinot Meunier Revelation in the Making
Krug is quietly developing a third single-vineyard clos dedicated entirely to Pinot Meunier — a project that may redefine how the variety is understood in Champagne.
A Medieval Seed That Rewrites the History of Pinot Noir
Genomic analysis of a medieval grape seed confirms that clonal propagation of Pinot Noir has preserved the variety unchanged for at least six hundred years.The Barrel Leasing Crisis Shaking French Wine to Its Core
H&A's placement under judicial protection threatens 2,000 wine producers and unpaid coopers across France — and reveals the structural fragility beneath twenty years of growth.
Montpeyroux Becomes a Standalone AOC in the Languedoc
AOC Montpeyroux officially replaces AOC Languedoc Montpeyroux, covering 594 hectares across four communes and producing a single red wine of minimum three varieties.
Hospices de Nuits Adds a Tenth Premier Cru to Its Domain
The acquisition of Les Perrières and two village parcels brings the Hospices de Nuits estate beyond 13.30 hectares for the first time.
The Hospices de Nuits-Saint-Georges has long occupied a singular position within the Côte de Nuits — an institution whose viticultural holdings carry both charitable purpose and appellational weight in one of Burgundy’s most geologically complex and collectible communes. Its annual charity auction, a fixture in the Burgundian calendar, draws serious buyers whose interest is as much in the terroir specificity of individual cuvées as in the philanthropic dimension of the sale. That portfolio has now grown in a manner that merits the attention of anyone who follows the appellation closely.
The institution has formally confirmed the addition of Les Perrières to its estate — a climat classified as Premier Cru within the Nuits-Saint-Georges appellation — bringing its total count of Premier Cru holdings to ten. The acquisition represents a meaningful step for an estate whose identity is defined by the quality and diversity of its classified land, and Les Perrières is not an incidental addition. Situated among the appellation’s more mineral and structured Premier Crus, it brings a distinct geological character to a portfolio already notable for its internal range across the commune’s varied terroirs.
Alongside Les Perrières, two parcels carrying AOC Nuits-Saint-Georges Villages status have joined the domain: Saint-Julien and Les Saint-Jacques. Together, the three new additions account for close to one additional hectare, bringing the Hospices de Nuits’ total holding to more than 13.30 hectares — a threshold the institution has not previously reached.
For collectors and professionals who follow the Hospices de Nuits auction, the practical implication is a modest but genuine broadening of the cuvée range available in future sales. Les Perrières, as a newly integrated Premier Cru, will in due course contribute a distinct expression to the institution’s lineup — one whose character, shaped by the specific limestone and clay composition of that climat, will provide a point of comparison with the existing Premier Cru cuvées that serious buyers already track across vintages.
The broader significance lies in what the expansion reflects about the institution’s strategic direction. Charitable foundations with viticultural holdings of this kind face a constant tension between consolidating existing land and pursuing growth when quality parcels become available. The Hospices de Nuits’ decision to absorb both a classified Premier Cru and two village-level parcels simultaneously suggests an appetite for measured expansion that serves both the quality of the auction offering and the long-term financial foundation of the institution’s charitable mission.
In an appellation where classified land rarely changes hands and where the identity of individual climats is followed with a precision more typical of Burgundy’s Côte de Beaune grands crus than most of the Côte de Nuits, the arrival of Les Perrières within the Hospices portfolio is a development worth marking. The wines it will produce — and the prices they will command when they first appear in the auction room — will be watched with interest.
Krug’s Third Clos: A Pinot Meunier Revelation in the Making
A walled 80-are Premier Cru parcel in Pargny-lès-Reims, replanted a decade ago and now entering production, signals Krug’s most intriguing project in years.
There are very few houses in Champagne whose every decision carries the weight of genuine expectation. Krug is one of them. From the Grande Cuvée’s multi-vintage architecture to the almost mythological status of the Clos du Mesnil — a 1.84-hectare walled Chardonnay parcel in Le Mesnil-sur-Oger whose single-vineyard bottling has become one of the most sought-after blanc de blancs on earth — the house has built its identity on the conviction that the greatest Champagne is an act of precision rather than abundance. That conviction is now being applied, quietly and methodically, to a third enclosed vineyard that the house has been developing on the Montagne de Reims for the better part of a decade.
The parcel in question sits in Pargny-lès-Reims, a Premier Cru village on the northern flank of the Montagne, within the arc of communes that has long contributed structure and depth to the region’s finest blends. It covers 80 ares — just under one hectare — and is entirely enclosed by stone walls in the tradition of the clos that defines Champagne’s most singular single-vineyard expressions. The vines were uprooted approximately ten years ago and replanted from scratch, a decision that imposed a decade of patience before the parcel could begin to contribute fruit of the quality the house demands. That moment is now arriving.
What makes the project particularly compelling is its varietal identity. Where the Clos du Mesnil is planted exclusively to Chardonnay and the Clos d’Ambonnay — Krug’s second enclosed parcel, a 0.68-hectare plot in the grand cru village of the same name — to Pinot Noir, this third clos is devoted entirely to Pinot Meunier. The choice is both unexpected and, on reflection, entirely coherent with the house’s broader philosophy.
Pinot Meunier occupies an ambiguous position in the hierarchy of Champagne varieties. It accounts for roughly a third of the appellation’s total plantings, yet it has historically been treated as the blend’s workhorse rather than its protagonist — valued for the immediate fruitiness and suppleness it contributes to non-vintage cuvées, but rarely trusted to carry a wine of prestige on its own. The received wisdom holds that it lacks the ageing potential of Chardonnay and the structural authority of Pinot Noir; that its character, however appealing in youth, becomes less interesting with time. That consensus has been challenged in recent years by a small number of growers producing serious single-variety expressions, but no house of Krug’s standing has yet staked its reputation on a definitive response to the question of what Pinot Meunier can become when given the same seriousness of purpose that the great varieties command.
A walled parcel, on Premier Cru land, farmed to the standards that Krug applies to its other two clos, and allowed to develop over the slow timeline that replanting from scratch imposes — this is as serious a statement of intent as the Champagne world is likely to see on the subject of Meunier’s potential.
The specific character that Pargny-lès-Reims will contribute to the wine is a matter for the vines to resolve over the coming years. The Montagne de Reims’ northern face produces fruit of considerable concentration and aromatic complexity, shaped by the combination of chalky subsoil and the particular microclimate that the forest above moderates. Meunier, planted on this terroir and farmed within the discipline of a walled enclosure, may produce something that fundamentally revises the variety’s critical standing — or it may simply add a third extraordinary chapter to a story that Krug has been writing, one enclosed parcel at a time, since the Clos du Mesnil first appeared in 1979.
The first bottles are not yet in sight. Young vines require time, and Krug is not a house inclined to release before readiness. But the project’s existence — its careful preparation, its varietal ambition, its geographical logic — is already one of the most interesting developments in prestige Champagne production in recent memory. The anticipation is entirely warranted.
A Medieval Seed That Rewrites the History of Pinot Noir
A grape pip recovered from fifteenth-century ruins in northern France carries DNA identical to the Pinot Noir grown in Burgundy’s vineyards today.
Somewhere beneath the ruins of a medieval hospital in Valenciennes, in the Nord department of northern France, a grape seed lay undisturbed for six centuries. Discarded among the organic waste of a fifteenth-century latrine, it survived in conditions that preserved its genetic material with sufficient integrity for modern sequencing. What that sequencing revealed, published this month in the journal Nature Communications, is one of the most remarkable findings in the history of viticulture: the pip belongs to a plant genetically indistinguishable from the Pinot Noir cultivated in Burgundy today.
The implications extend well beyond a single seed. They confirm, with the precision that only palaeogenomics can provide, that the variety now responsible for Romanée-Conti, Chambolle-Musigny, and Gevrey-Chambertin has been reproduced without genetic modification for at least six hundred years — carried forward, generation after generation, through the deliberate vegetative propagation techniques that viticulturists have practised since antiquity.
What the Pip Reveals
The study, conducted by a team led by palaeogeneticist Ludovic Orlando of the Centre for Anthropobiology and Genomics at the Université Toulouse-III-Paul-Sabatier and archaeobotanist Laurent Bouby of the Institut des Sciences de l’Évolution in Montpellier, analysed the genomic sequences of 54 grape seeds spanning a period from the Bronze Age to the medieval era. The Valenciennes pip is not the oldest among them, but it is the most precise in its identity: its genome matches the modern Pinot Noir variety exactly, making it a direct biological ancestor — or more accurately, a biological equivalent — of every vine currently classified under that name.
The seed was recovered from what the researchers describe as a medieval rubbish deposit: a food waste context associated with a hospital operating in the final decades of the Hundred Years’ War. Whether the grape was consumed as table fruit or whether the hospital’s residents were drinking wine produced from the same variety is a question the seed itself cannot answer. What it can confirm is that the plant producing it was, by every genomic measure available, the same as its modern counterpart.
The mechanism that made this continuity possible is clonal propagation — specifically, the technique of taking cuttings from an existing vine and rooting them to produce genetically identical offspring. Unlike sexual reproduction through seed, which generates genetic recombination and produces offspring with distinct characteristics, vegetative propagation preserves the parent plant’s genome precisely. Every cutting taken from a Pinot Noir vine produces a plant carrying exactly the same genetic information as its parent. Repeated across centuries, this process creates an unbroken biological chain connecting the medieval vine to the modern one.
Clonal Propagation: Older Than Previously Documented
The Nature Communications study’s contribution extends beyond the Valenciennes discovery. By sequencing grape seeds across a span of more than four thousand years, the research team has established a substantially earlier timeline for the deliberate use of clonal propagation in French viticulture than the written historical record had previously confirmed.
The clearest evidence of the technique appears from the Iron Age onward — roughly the seventh to fifth centuries before the common era — when seeds from geographically and chronologically distant sites begin showing genetic relationships consistent with clonal reproduction rather than sexual propagation. The presence of genetically related vines across sites separated by significant distance is not easily explained by natural seed dispersal; it implies the deliberate transportation and replanting of vegetative material, which in turn implies a level of viticultural knowledge and commercial exchange considerably more sophisticated than was previously documented for that period.
The chronology of viticulture’s arrival in France is also illuminated. The oldest seeds in the study, dating to between 2,300 and 2,000 years before the common era in the region around Nîmes, derive from wild vine populations. Domesticated varieties appear from approximately 625 to 500 years before the common era, at a site in Saint-Maximin in the Var — a date broadly consistent with the established historical account of viticulture’s introduction to southern France by Greek colonists who founded Marseille at the beginning of the sixth century before the common era.
What the genomic evidence adds to the historical account is an understanding of the botanical traffic that accompanied the wine trade. Roman-era seeds reveal the presence of domesticated varieties with Iberian, Balkan, Caucasian, and Near Eastern genetic origins — physical evidence of the long-distance exchange of plant material that the existing archaeological record, rich in amphora fragments but largely silent on the movement of vines themselves, had been unable to document. Alongside these imported varieties, the study identifies genetic mixing between local wild vines and domesticated cultivars, particularly in northern France, from the Iron Age through the Roman period. This hybridisation may have occurred through natural pollination, but the study raises the possibility that some of it reflected deliberate attempts by early viticulturists to develop cultivars better suited to the cooler, wetter conditions of northern Gaul.
The Weight of Six Centuries
For the collector and the connoisseur, the implications of the Valenciennes discovery are worth considering in a register beyond the strictly scientific. The Pinot Noir vine is already exceptional in the fine wine world for the intensity of its relationship to a specific geography. No other variety is so completely identified with a single landscape — the Côte d’Or, its limestone and clay hillsides, its centuries of monastic cultivation and aristocratic patronage — and no other variety has been more exhaustively studied, argued over, and cellared in pursuit of the qualities that its finest expressions deliver.
What the new genomic evidence contributes to that understanding is a form of temporal depth that no written record or surviving artefact had previously provided. The vine that a vigneron in Gevrey-Chambertin plants from a cutting taken from his oldest parcel is not merely the product of a continuous tradition of cultivation; it is, in a biologically precise sense, the same organism that fruited in northern France while the Hundred Years’ War was drawing to its close. The genetic continuity is absolute, preserved across six centuries of human decisions to take a cutting rather than plant a seed, to replicate rather than reinvent.
This knowledge does not change the way a great Burgundy tastes. It does, however, add a dimension to what tasting one means — a reminder that the glass on the table is not merely the product of a particular vintage, a particular soil, and a particular winemaker’s choices, but the endpoint of a biological chain of deliberate human decisions stretching back to a medieval viticulturist who understood, without the vocabulary of genetics, that the way to preserve what was exceptional was to reproduce it exactly.
The pip from Valenciennes is a small object. The history it carries is not.
The Barrel Leasing Crisis Shaking French Wine to Its Core
The collapse of H&A, France’s dominant oak barrel leasing group, exposes a financial model that was always contingent on a wine market that no longer exists.
On 25 March 2026, the Bordeaux commercial court received a filing that sent an immediate tremor through the French wine industry. H&A Location, the company that for two decades has managed the oak barrel parks of approximately 2,000 wine producers across France, Spain, Italy, and California — overseeing a portfolio of roughly one million casks — placed itself under judicial protection, citing its inability to sustain operations within its historical structure and requesting the appointment of two court administrators to oversee the search for a buyer.
The announcement confirmed what many in the trade had suspected for months. Since early 2026, producers who had contracted with H&A had reported an unravelling of the company’s core service commitments: barrels were no longer being collected at end of contract, overpayments were going unreimbursed, and calls to the company’s offices were going unanswered. The filing did not come as a surprise to those following the situation closely. It came, however, at precisely the wrong moment for a French wine sector already navigating one of its most structurally difficult periods in living memory.
A Model Built for Growth
To understand the nature of the H&A crisis, it is necessary to understand what the company actually did — and why it was considered, for twenty years, an elegantly rational solution to a genuine operational problem.
Founded in Bordeaux in 2004 by Richard Hardillier and Florent Arrouy, H&A developed a three-party leasing system for the wine industry’s most fundamental piece of equipment. A producer wishing to barrel-age a vintage would direct an order to a cooperage of their choice; the cooperage would invoice H&A rather than the producer; H&A would take ownership of the barrels and place them with the producer under a leasing contract arranged through a third-party financial institution — a bank or specialist lessor — which then collected monthly payments directly from the producer. At the end of the barrel’s useful life, H&A would collect and resell the used oak into secondary markets — principally the spirits industry, where Bourbon and Cognac producers historically provided reliable demand for once- or twice-used wine barrels.
The proposition to wine producers was coherent: rather than purchasing barrels outright, which requires significant capital expenditure at harvest each year, or managing complex banking arrangements independently, they could access a fully managed, off-balance-sheet solution with a single point of contact handling logistics, renewal, and disposal. For a medium-sized château making annual barrel purchases of hundreds of thousands of euros, the appeal was genuine. For smaller producers without established banking relationships, it was sometimes the only viable route to premium barrel access.
For twenty years, the arithmetic worked. H&A grew steadily, accumulated a portfolio of one million barrels — more than twice the annual output of the entire French cooperage industry — and established itself across every major French appellation, from Saint-Émilion and the Médoc to Burgundy, Cognac, and the Rhône Valley. Among its 2,000 clients were independent domaines, grand cru classé châteaux, major négociant houses, and large cooperative wineries. In 2022, two subsidiaries of Crédit Agricole took minority stakes in the company, a validation that seemed, at the time, to confirm its structural soundness.
When the Secondary Market Disappears
The mechanism that kept H&A’s model viable was the secondary market for used barrels. A barrel has a standard wine-ageing life of two to four uses, after which it contributes insufficient oak character to justify its continued use in wine élevage. The global spirits industry — and particularly the American Bourbon sector, which legally requires new charred oak for production and therefore generates an enormous appetite for used wine barrels — had historically provided a deep and growing secondary market for this material. H&A’s ability to resell used barrels at predictable values was the financial engine that subsidised its generous buy-back terms to producer clients and covered the operating costs of a complex logistics operation.
That engine stalled. The American Bourbon boom of the 2010s peaked and began to reverse; global spirits consumption fell from its pandemic-era highs; Cognac, another significant consumer of used wine barrels, entered a sharp downturn driven by declining Chinese demand. Simultaneously, French wine production itself contracted: the 2025 harvest was France’s smallest on record at approximately 34 million hectolitres, with producers reducing barrel purchases in proportion. The secondary market for used barrels, which had underpinned H&A’s entire financial model, collapsed at precisely the moment when the primary market was also contracting.
H&A’s internal architecture was built to function in conditions of growth. When barrel repurchase values were high, the monthly payments H&A collected from financial lessors on behalf of producers covered real barrel costs, real logistics, and left sufficient margin to sustain operations and honour buy-back commitments. When repurchase values fell and production volumes declined simultaneously, the model’s internal tensions became structural liabilities. The company had made long-term contractual commitments — to buy back barrels, to reimburse producers for overpayments between theoretical contract values and actual barrel use — at valuations the deteriorating market could no longer support.
The result was a growing gap between what H&A owed its creditors — principally the cooperages that had supplied barrels and never been paid — and what it could generate from the declining secondary market. Cooperage debts are estimated in the tens of millions of euros across the full creditor base; a single court judgment in February 2026, arising from a claim brought by Bordeaux cooperage Quintessence for 25 unpaid invoices, established an outstanding debt of approximately €419,000 to that supplier alone. The court bailiff’s subsequent attempt to seize assets from H&A’s bank accounts recovered €1,083 — less than a quarter of a percent of the outstanding amount.
The Cascade of Consequences
The immediate consequences of H&A’s placement under judicial protection are complex, legally contested, and financially serious for multiple categories of affected party simultaneously.
For the cooperages that supplied barrels under H&A’s arrangement, the crisis is principally a question of ownership. French commercial law includes a principle of réserve de propriété: a seller retains legal ownership of goods until payment is received in full. Cooperages that supplied barrels to H&A — and were never paid — remain, in legal theory, the owners of those barrels, even if they are currently sitting in a château cellar holding a producer’s wine. In the event of H&A’s liquidation, those cooperages would be entitled to seek payment directly from the producers using their barrels, irrespective of the fact that those producers are already paying monthly leasing fees to financial institutions.
This is the scenario that has concentrated minds most urgently among wine producers. The prospect of paying twice — once to the financial lessor under the lease contract, and again to the cooperage invoking réserve de propriété — on top of the reimbursements H&A owes them for overpayments between theoretical lease values and actual barrel use, represents a potentially catastrophic financial exposure for estates already operating under margin pressure. Several appellations have begun organising collective legal responses: Saint-Émilion’s wine council held an information session in February attended by more than a hundred properties; the Burgundy and Médoc professional bodies have been surveying their members to establish the extent of exposure. The possibility of a class action has been raised, though the diversity of individual contract structures presents significant obstacles to a unified legal approach.
For the financial lessors — the banks and specialist leasing institutions that collected monthly payments from producers on H&A’s behalf — the crisis raises questions about the due diligence applied to the underlying asset base. Leasing contracts are secured against the physical barrels themselves; if the value attributed to those barrels was systematically inflated relative to the actual secondary market, the financial institutions bear some responsibility for having priced and structured contracts against an asset they did not adequately monitor. The extent to which any of the hundreds of millions of euros in leasing contracts can be contested on grounds of misrepresentation is a question French courts will likely be required to resolve.
A Symptom, Not an Anomaly
It would be tempting to read the H&A situation as an isolated operational failure — a company that grew too quickly, over-promised, and was caught by a confluence of adverse market conditions. That reading is too comfortable.
The more accurate interpretation is that H&A’s collapse is a symptomatic expression of the deeper structural difficulties afflicting the French wine sector. A financialised service model built around the assumption of continuous volume growth in premium wine production and a stable secondary market for used barrels was always contingent on conditions that the market was never guaranteed to maintain. When those conditions deteriorated — as wine consumption fell, as spirits demand contracted, as Bordeaux in particular faced a sustained crisis of price and demand — the model’s internal tensions became visible, and then catastrophic.
The French wine sector is navigating a conjunction of pressures that have no recent parallel: declining domestic consumption, a contracting export market in some categories, climate-driven vintage volatility, rising production costs, and a generational shift in wine consumption patterns that is structurally, not cyclically, reducing demand among younger consumers. In this context, the service companies and financial intermediaries whose business models assumed the sector’s permanent expansion are, like H&A, discovering that growth-contingent models carry risks that decades of uninterrupted growth had rendered invisible.
The H&A crisis will resolve, one way or another, through the judicial process now underway. A buyer may be found who can sustain a scaled-down version of the operation; more likely, the company will be liquidated and its obligations distributed across creditors according to the priorities established by French insolvency law. In either case, the financial pain will be distributed across cooperages, financial institutions, and wine producers in proportions that no party currently knows and no analyst can yet project with confidence.
What is already clear is that the barrel — oak, ancient, and irreplaceable in the production of the world’s most celebrated wines — has become the unlikely centre of a financial crisis whose full dimensions the French wine industry is only beginning to grasp.
Montpeyroux Becomes a Standalone AOC in the Languedoc
The elevation of Montpeyroux from a Languedoc sub-appellation to a fully independent AOC marks a decisive step for one of the region’s most distinctive terroirs.
In the fractured and often contested landscape of Languedoc appellation politics, the formal recognition of a new AOC is never a minor administrative event. It reflects, at minimum, a collective argument — sustained over years and subjected to INAO scrutiny — that a specific territory possesses geological, climatic, and viticultural characteristics sufficiently distinct to justify its own regulatory identity rather than the subordinate status of a named village within a broader regional designation. The elevation of Montpeyroux from AOC Languedoc Montpeyroux to the standalone AOC Montpeyroux is precisely that kind of event, and it deserves the attention of anyone who follows the Languedoc’s ongoing effort to articulate its internal complexity with greater precision.
The new appellation covers 594 hectares distributed across four communes in the Hérault: Montpeyroux itself, along with Arboras, Lagamas, and Saint-Jean-de-Fos. The zone sits at the northern edge of the Languedoc’s viticultural heartland, where the garrigue-covered slopes begin their ascent toward the Larzac plateau — a transitional landscape of considerable geological complexity, where schist, limestone, and ancient alluvial terraces create the kind of varied but coherent terroir mosaic that appellations of genuine character tend to occupy. The altitude and the influence of cool air descending from the Larzac give Montpeyroux a thermal profile meaningfully different from the hotter, flatter zones closer to the Mediterranean coast — longer ripening seasons, greater diurnal temperature variation, and a natural freshness in the fruit that has long distinguished the area’s wines from those of the surrounding Languedoc plain.
The appellation’s production framework is deliberately restrictive in ways that reflect serious quality ambition. AOC Montpeyroux produces a single wine category: red only. No white, no rosé carries the new designation, a specificity that concentrates the appellation’s identity entirely on its red wine expression and avoids the dilution of appellational character that multi-colour designations can produce. The blend must incorporate a minimum of three grape varieties drawn from the set of permitted principal varieties: Carignan, Grenache, Mourvèdre, and Syrah. This multi-variety requirement is not merely regulatory convention; it reflects the winemaking culture of the Languedoc’s finest terroirs, where assemblage across complementary varieties — each contributing different structural and aromatic dimensions — has historically produced more complete and age-worthy wines than single-variety expression alone.
The role of Carignan within the blend merits specific attention. Long dismissed as a workhorse variety in the broader Languedoc context, Carignan from old vines on the schist and limestone soils of the Montpeyroux zone is a wine of a different order entirely — structured, deeply coloured, and capable of remarkable longevity when yields are controlled and the vine material is of sufficient age. Its inclusion as a principal variety in the new AOC’s framework is a statement of confidence in Carignan’s qualitative potential within this specific terroir, and it aligns Montpeyroux with the broader reappraisal of the variety that the Languedoc’s most thoughtful producers have been advancing for two decades.
For the producers of Montpeyroux — a village that has attracted some of the appellation’s most committed and quality-focused independent vignerons over the past thirty years — the new designation provides both regulatory clarity and commercial identity. The removal of the Languedoc prefix places Montpeyroux in direct appellational dialogue with France’s other standalone geographic designations rather than positioning it as a sub-category of a vast regional AOC. That repositioning is not cosmetic. It changes how the wine is read on a label, how it is positioned by importers and retailers, and ultimately how it is understood by collectors approaching the Languedoc with the same seriousness they would bring to any other French wine region.
The appellation’s 594 hectares will not all immediately produce wine at the level the designation’s ambitions imply — that is true of every AOC at the moment of its creation. But the regulatory framework now in place, with its single-colour restriction, its multi-variety assemblage requirement, and its rooting in a terroir whose character is genuine and well-documented, provides the conditions within which serious production can consolidate and be recognised on its own terms. Montpeyroux has long been known to those who follow the Languedoc closely. It is now formally, and irreversibly, on the map.
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