Domaine de la Romanée-Conti: Inside Burgundy’s Ultimate Estate
A definitive, in-depth exploration of DRC’s history, vineyards, wines, philosophy, vintages, and market power through 2025.
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti (DRC) is a Burgundy wine estate based in Vosne-Romanée, Côte d’Or, long revered for its collection of celebrated Grand Cru vineyards. Uniquely in Burgundy, DRC has assembled and held one of the largest concentrations of top-ranked vineyards under single ownership for over 150 years. This includes monopole sites like Romanée-Conti and La Tâche that DRC alone bottles, alongside prime parcels in Richebourg, Romanée-Saint-Vivant, Echézeaux, Grands Échezeaux, Corton, and the Montrachet hillside. Such a portfolio was painstakingly built despite wars, phylloxera, and economic turmoil that fragmented many other domaines.
DRC’s continuity and long-term approach have allowed it to maintain an identity closely tied to Burgundy’s concept of terroir—each wine aiming to transparently express the character of its climat. What follows is a detailed, analytical look at DRC’s structure and wines (including every wine produced, from its flagship Grand Crus to rare secondary bottlings) as of the 2024/2025 horizon, examining how historical developments, viticultural and winemaking practices, and management philosophies have shaped the estate’s enduring status.
Ownership: a 50/50 partnership shaped by crisis, capital, and continuity
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti is jointly owned and run by two families, the de Villaines and the Leroys (and their descendants), who have shared control in a unique partnership since the mid-20th century. The modern domaine’s formation dates to 1869, when Jacques-Marie Duvault-Blochet purchased Romanée-Conti and additional Grand Cru parcels, eventually establishing a family-held société civile to manage the holdings under France’s inheritance laws. Duvault-Blochet’s descendants (notably the Gaudin de Villaine branch) retained ownership into the early 20th century, and by 1911, Edmond Gaudin de Villaine was directing the estate.
A watershed arrived in 1942. During the hardships of World War II, Jacques Chambon—a relative who co-owned the domaine—sold his share to Henri Leroy, a prominent négociant. This critical infusion of capital from the Leroy family arguably saved DRC from being broken up or sold off entirely during that turbulent period. From 1942 onward, the estate has been owned 50/50 by the de Villaine and Leroy interests, an arrangement that brought together “tradition and new blood,” as Aubert de Villaine later described.
Governance alternated or was shared between the families. In 1954, Henri Leroy transferred his stake to his daughters Pauline Leroy (who became Pauline Roch) and Marcelle Leroy (Lalou Bize-Leroy). In 1974, Aubert de Villaine(grandson of Edmond) and Lalou Bize-Leroy were appointed co-directors, formally representing each family in running the estate. That joint stewardship lasted until a sharp conflict in 1991. Mme. Bize-Leroy, a strong proponent of organic viticulture and already a force in Burgundy, was ousted as co-director due to disagreements over her independent business decisions (notably concerning the 1988 vintage distribution). After Lalou’s departure in 1992, the Leroy family’s managerial role passed to her nephew Charles Roch, and then, after his untimely death, to his brother Henri-Frédéric Roch in 1992. Henri-Frédéric Roch served as co-director alongside Aubert de Villaine for the next 26 years and was a significant figure until his passing in 2018.
Succession was formalized again after 2018. Following Henri-Frédéric Roch’s death, his cousin Perrine Fenal (the daughter of Lalou Bize-Leroy) was appointed as the Leroy family’s representative co-director in 2019. Meanwhile, Aubert de Villaine—at the helm since 1974—announced his retirement effective end of 2021, after nearly 48 yearsmanaging the domaine. He remains an advisor, but day-to-day co-direction passed to the next generation: Bertrand de Villaine (Aubert’s nephew) now represents the de Villaine side, working jointly with Perrine Fenal from 2022 onward.
This careful succession signals a commitment to continuity in philosophy: both co-directors are family members deeply familiar with DRC’s ethos, suggesting strategic continuity rather than abrupt change. Aubert de Villaine has emphasized that the estate’s strength lies in equilibrium between the founding family’s tradition and the Leroy family’s contributions, and future leadership transitions are likely to continue within the families, preserving the private, family-owned character of the domaine. Throughout, ownership structure has shaped strategy—1992 brought a renewed focus and “fresh start” under Aubert’s sole vision, while earlier Leroy influence pushed DRC toward organic farming. All decisions have been guided by long-term stewardship rather than short-term commercialism, in keeping with the domaine’s generational horizon.
Historical deep dive: from monastic vines to modern pivots—1869, 1936, 1942, 1992, 2009, 2019
The roots of DRC’s vineyards stretch back centuries, but several turning points shaped the estate as it exists today. Records show that by 1232, the Abbey of Saint-Vivant in Vosne cultivated vines on what later became Romanée-Conti and neighboring plots. The 17th–18th centuries brought aristocratic ownership: in 1760, the vineyard then known as “La Romanée” was famously sold after a bidding war to Louis François, Prince of Conti, who appended his name to it—creating Romanée-Conti’s enduring identity. His tenure ended with the French Revolution, when his lands were seized and auctioned. By the early 19th century, Romanée-Conti passed through wealthy owners—Nicolas Defer de la Nouerre, then in 1819 to Julien Ouvrard—at ever-increasing prices that already reflected the vineyard’s reputation.
The pivotal milestone came in 1869: banker and wine enthusiast Jacques-Marie Duvault-Blochet purchased Romanée-Conti and methodically expanded holdings by acquiring other Grand Cru vineyards. Under him, parcels in Échezeaux, Grands Échezeaux, and Richebourg were added, establishing the core of what became DRC. This consolidation mattered profoundly: as inheritance laws fragmented many domaines, Duvault-Blochet’s foresight kept extraordinary climats under one ownership, reinforced by the société civile structure reportedly set up by him (and heirs) to guard against fragmentation.
The 20th century brought both expansion and upheaval. In 1933, DRC acquired La Tâche, a revered Grand Cru formerly owned by the Liger-Belair family, forced to sell amid financial difficulty. DRC already owned 4 hectares of adjacent Premier Cru Les Gaudichots—a site whose wines were considered nearly as esteemed as La Tâche. In 1936, after legal processes, La Tâche and DRC’s Gaudichots holdings were combined and granted AOC Grand Cru status under the single name La Tâche, which DRC holds as a monopole to this day. Structurally, it enlarged La Tâche and cemented DRC’s exclusive control—an enduring “coup” in Burgundy’s administrative history.
World War II created peril and permanent change. Economic devastation could have fractured the estate; owners faced pressure to sell in the early 1940s. The 1942 sale of half the domaine to Henri Leroy ensured DRC stayed intact, providing stability through war and post-war lean years. Yet viticulture faced its own crisis: phylloxera necessitated replanting earlier in the century, and Romanée-Conti was famously among the last to succumb, producing its final pre-phylloxera vintage in 1945. That 1945 Romanée-Conti yielded only some 600 bottles from dying ancient vines and became legendary—but afterward the vineyard lay fallow as new grafted vines were planted. Consequently, no Romanée-Conti was produced from 1946 through 1951, a historically significant gap illustrating how replanting cycles can interrupt even an icon. Post-war, DRC replanted and recovered across vineyards during the 1950s.
The 1960s–1970s expanded DRC into white Burgundy and solidified a major red holding. In 1963 (fully realized by 1967), DRC acquired parcels in Le Montrachet, entering the realm of white Burgundy with a prized 0.67 ha holding on the Puligny/Chassagne slope—creating Montrachet Grand Cru to complement the reds. Romanée-Saint-Vivantfollowed a different path: owned by the Marey-Monge family into the 20th century, DRC began farming a major portion (5.28 ha) under lease in 1966. Only in 1988 did DRC purchase those leased vines outright, completing ownership of 5.3 ha (the majority of the climat). That 1988 purchase was strategically financed by selling and leasing back some assets (including parts of Échezeaux/Grands Échezeaux), showing DRC’s willingness to leverage lesser holdings to secure key vineyards long-term.
The early 1990s brought internal rupture followed by renewal. The conflict with Lalou Bize-Leroy in 1991–92 marked a management turning point, after which Aubert de Villaine implemented changes to “start the domaine almost from scratch” after 1992. Qualitative advances followed, and by the late 1990s the domaine began releasing a special cuvée, Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru “Cuvée Duvault-Blochet,” in exceptional years—reviving a 1930s practice. In 1999, a high-quality year with generous yields, a second picking from all DRC’s red Grand Cru vineyards (except Romanée-Conti) was blended and declassified to Premier Cru as Cuvée Duvault-Blochet, allowing inclusion of younger vine fruit while preserving Grand Cru strictness for the main wines.
In the 2000s and 2010s, DRC expanded beyond Vosne-Romanée in its modern era. In November 2008, a 30-year leasewas signed with Prince Florent de Mérode for 2.28 ha of Corton Grand Cru across three lieux-dits—Clos du Roi, Bressandes, and Renardes—and the first DRC Corton was produced in 2009, notably the only red Grand Cru in the Côte de Beaune and a “special addition” to a Côte de Nuits-centric portfolio. A decade later, DRC partnered with Bonneau du Martray: in 2018 a deal was made to lease and farm 2.9 ha of Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru. The inaugural DRC Corton-Charlemagne was harvested in 2019, bottled in late 2020, and debuted around 2022, marking the first entirely new DRC wine in decades.
Climate adversity produced defining moments. 2016 brought severe spring frost in Burgundy; yields were extremely low, yet DRC still produced wine with meticulous work. Conversely, warm years 2018, 2019, and 2020 delivered bountiful ripe harvests and tested adaptation—earlier harvest dates and careful canopy management among them. In 2021, a devastating April frost struck again; Aubert de Villaine described 2021 as requiring “elegance in the face of adversity,” yielding tiny quantities but high quality in surviving grapes. These challenges and responses are developed in the Vintage Analysis.
By the 2020s, DRC sits at a juncture: under new leadership (Bertrand de Villaine and Perrine Fenal) for the first time in half a century, yet determined to uphold an enduring philosophy. Its history shows resilience through external upheavals—wars, economic crises, climate swings—and internal transitions—ownership changes and generational handovers—where each rupture (1942, 1992, 2018/2022) has been met with reaffirmation of core values rather than identity shift.
Vineyards: 28 hectares of Grand Cru only—and the estate-wide farming doctrine
A traditional horse-drawn plow being used in Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s vineyards (photo circa 2005), reflecting the estate’s commitment to gentle, organic viticulture.
All of DRC’s vineyards are Grand Cru climats, and the domaine is unusual in Burgundy for exclusively producing Grand Cru wines across both red and white categories. Holdings total around 28 hectares (about 69 acres) spread mostly around Vosne-Romanée (northern Côte de Nuits) with small extensions to the Côte de Beaune. In Vosne-Romanée and adjacent Flagey-Échezeaux, parcels lie on well-drained east and southeast facing slopes at roughly 240–270 meterselevation. Soils are classic Côte d’Or: limestone-rich clayey marl with red-brown clay topsoils containing iron, and rockier subsoils higher on the slope. Each Grand Cru has its nuances, yet all benefit from mineral-rich terroirs that impart finesse and structure.
Viticulture is built around soil and vine health: average vine age is quite old (around 40–50 years, parcel-dependent), maintained through renewal plantings in small sections rather than complete replanting, preserving old vine genetics and equilibrium.
The Grand Cru holdings, one by one (every site, every detail)
Romanée-Conti — 1.81 ha (4.47 acres), monopole.
The “crown jewel,” mid-slope in Vosne-Romanée, bordered by Romanée-Saint-Vivant and Richebourg, with deep but friable soils and near-perfect easterly exposure. Vines are 100% Pinot Noir (as with all DRC reds), average age often exceeding 50 years. After the full replanting post-1945, those mid-century plantings matured, and selections from Romanée-Conti have been used as a massal source for other vineyards due to their “incomparable genetic legacy.” Stylistically, Romanée-Conti is often the most ethereal and profound—unmatched aromatic complexity and silky persistence—yet typically the lowest-yielding. Though Grand Cru regulations allow up to 35 hl/ha, DRC averages only ~25 hl/ha across vineyards, and Romanée-Conti is generally even lower, producing around 5,000–6,000 bottles in a normal year. Output has been carefully managed historically, even to the extent of skipping vintages when necessary (as in the late 1940s). Within the estate, it is treated not as a standalone icon but as first among equals, tended with identical rigor.
La Tâche — 6.06 ha (about 15 acres), monopole.
Larger than Romanée-Conti, lying just south, encompassing what were historically two climats (La Tâche proper and part of Les Gaudichots). Its slope rises slightly higher than Romanée-Conti’s and soils vary subtly (some areas with more clay or gravel), yielding a wine of great power and structure—more robust and full-bodied, often with firmer tannins in youth—yet capable of rivaling Romanée-Conti in depth. A tension between “rigor and elegance” is noted: force early, aromatic nuance with age. Production is significant—often 1,500–2,000 cases annually—and it serves as a backbone of DRC’s reputation. La Tâche was among the first vineyards where DRC trialed biodynamic farming in the 2000s. Mean vine age is around 50 years, with incremental replanting. Its long finish and spicy, exotic perfume are frequently remarked upon; analytically, it showcases DRC’s ability to marry concentration and balance.
Richebourg — 3.51 ha owned (of 8.03 ha total).
DRC is the single largest owner (not a monopole). Richebourg lies north of Romanée-Conti and slightly higher in parts, with shallower soils in the upper portion. The wine is often noted as “rich, voluptuous and intense.” Within the range it tends to be muscular, with robust fruit and structure, sometimes a touch more rustic or earthy in youth than Romanée-Conti’s refinement. Many vines date to the mid-1950s, with some younger parcels from the 1980s. Clonal diversity is maintained via massal selections, including plant material historically sourced from Romanée-Conti vines for “finesse and complexity.” Other domaines (Leroy, Hudelot-Noëllat, etc.) produce Richebourg, but DRC’s is consistently among the most sought after, forming about 10–12% of production.
Romanée-Saint-Vivant — 5.29 ha owned (of 9.44 ha total).
Historically labeled Romanée-Saint-Vivant “Marey-Monge,” DRC’s vines occupy the heart of this Grand Cru just below Romanée-Conti on slightly flatter ground nearer the village. Soil is deeper and more clay-rich in parts, contributing to elegance and aromatic lift. DRC’s Romanée-Saint-Vivant is typically the estate’s most “silky” and perfumed red—lighter in color and body than Richebourg, emphasizing finesse. Delicate in youth yet complex with age; may mature sooner than some, though top vintages age as long. DRC farmed it from 1966 via lease and purchased outright in 1988, integrating it early into the regime. Average vine age is slightly younger than Romanée-Conti or La Tâche due to replanting, but many sections are now 40+ years old. Its name links to the Abbey of Saint-Vivant, tying back to DRC’s earliest origins. It is significant in volume—often similar to La Tâche in case quantity—and noted for “airy perfume and silky texture.”
Echézeaux — 4.67 ha owned (of 37.7 ha total).
A large Grand Cru with many sub-climats; DRC’s holdings are mainly in Cruots (Échezeaux du Dessus) and Champs Traversins, mid-slope above Clos Vougeot and west of Grands Échezeaux. Often viewed as the entry point to DRC’s reds because the appellation is broader and historically less consistent. DRC’s Echézeaux tends to be less complex and structured than stablemates—bright fruit, approachable texture, sometimes more rustic or straightforward in youth. The domaine acknowledges challenges from vigor and mixed soils, but quality has improved through stricter yield control and biodynamic practices. In weaker vintages, DRC has sometimes not released Echézeaux, preferring declassification or not bottling separately—evidence of exacting standards. Yet in strong years (e.g. 1990, 2005, 2016) it can be superb, vibrant and spicy. The estate candidly recognizes it “is generally not considered to be in the same echelon as the others,” though crafted with identical care.
Grands Échezeaux — 3.53 ha owned (of 9.14 ha total).
Adjacent to and uphill from Echézeaux, with heavier clay on a flatter plateau—yielding greater density and longevity. DRC’s Grands Échezeaux is big and richly textured, more structured and intense than Echézeaux, with firm tannins and dark fruit/earth needing time. With age it can be outstanding, showing gamey, truffle-like nuance over decades. DRC treats it nearly on par with the “big three” (Romanée-Conti, La Tâche, Richebourg) in barrel allocation and new oak. Long-time connoisseurs note it can outclass many producers’ more vaunted climats blind after aging. Production is typically ~800–1,000 cases annually—rarer than La Tâche or Richebourg. Historically, to finance the Romanée-Saint-Vivant purchase, DRC temporarily sold a share of Grands Échezeaux in the late 1980s and leased it back, later regaining it.
Corton — 2.28 ha farmed (leased; within ~90 ha total).
Spread across three lieux-dits—Les Clos du Roi, Les Bressandes, Les Renardes—and vinified as a single blended Corton Grand Cru since 2009. Terroir differs markedly from Vosne: marl and limestone with more sand and oolitic ironstone in places, and a cooler microclimate. The Pinot Noir is robust, more upfront in tannin, slightly earthier—“unapproachable in youth,” needing time. Early vintages (2009–2012) were closely watched. Some vines were newly replanted around the handover, requiring DRC to adapt; over time the team likely integrated biodynamic methods and massal selection here too. It is the only red in DRC’s portfolio from the Côte de Beaune, offering a distinct contrast. A technical difference: Corton is generally aged in slightly less than 100% new oak, unlike the other reds which see new oak barrels for every vintage—acknowledging Corton’s structure may not need as much new wood. Annual production is roughly 500–600 cases, often allocated as an “entry” DRC wine (though still commanding high prices).
Montrachet — 0.67 ha owned (of ~8 ha total).
Two small parcels—one on the Chassagne side and one on the Puligny side—totaling 0.67 ha. Vines average 60+ yearsold. Until Corton-Charlemagne comes fully online, Montrachet is DRC’s sole white wine for commercial release. Production averages only ~250 cases per year. It is intensely concentrated, almost massive, balanced by a precise mineral spine. It ferments and ages in 100% new oak (barrels treated as one-use only) and is typically released later than the reds of the same vintage after additional bottle aging at the domaine. In youth, it can be reserved, even austere; with 10+ years, it develops a regal bouquet—hazelnut, honeysuckle, truffle. Notably, DRC does not make Bâtard-Montrachet or lesser whites for sale—Montrachet stands alone. Yet DRC does possess a minuscule 0.17 ha strip of Bâtard-Montrachet, producing only a barrel or two. It is not commercialized—kept for family and friends, occasionally served at the domaine but “not sold, only for private consumption.” This private Bâtard (sometimes nicknamed the domaine’s “house white”) underscores DRC’s focus on Montrachet as its representative Chardonnay.
Corton-Charlemagne — 2.9 ha farmed (leased; of ~72 ha total).
The newest addition: beginning with the 2019 vintage, DRC began producing Corton-Charlemagne from vines leased from Domaine Bonneau du Martray. The leased plot is substantial—2.9 ha, nearly 4% of the appellation—on the upper slopes in Pernand-Vergelesses. As of 2024, detailed information remains limited because only a couple of vintages have been made and released in very limited quantities, but it is known that the wine was first bottled in late 2020 and debuted around 2022. Farming is fully organic/biodynamic, consistent with the estate. Early reports describe the 2019 Corton-Charlemagne as promising—marrying Corton-Charlemagne’s muscular minerality with DRC precision. It is aged in new oak (likely with slightly shorter élevage than Montrachet) and produced in similarly small quantities, perhaps 800–1,000 cases. It positions DRC as steward of both of Burgundy’s most hallowed Chardonnay Grand Crus—Montrachet and Corton-Charlemagne—a north-south bookend to Pinot Noir climats.
Estate-wide viticulture: organic since the 1980s, biodynamic by 2007–2008, and the mechanics of care
Across all vineyards, unifying themes define DRC farming. The domaine has practiced organic viticulture since at least the mid-1980s, eliminating chemical herbicides and fertilizers early. By 2007, the entire domaine was converted to biodynamic farming—organic principles plus homeopathic preparations and lunar calendar considerations. The transition was gradual: parcels such as parts of La Tâche and Grands Échezeaux were trialed earlier; by 2008 all estate vines were biodynamic. Aubert de Villaine articulated the aim as respecting the “precious but fragile patrimony” of each climat and encouraging natural balance within the ecosystem.
Vines are densely planted—often around 10,000 vines/ha—forcing deep root competition. Vine training and canopy management are meticulous: leaves are thinned or retained to balance ripeness, and green harvesting is used to control yields if nature hasn’t already. Clonal material is a hallmark: DRC relies on massal selections of Pinot Noir fin, propagating cuttings from oldest and best vines (particularly Romanée-Conti) rather than commercial clones, sustaining a unique genetic lineage that contributes to subtlety and complexity.
Soil health is central: vineyards are plowed (often by horse in Grand Crus to avoid compaction), cover crops may be used against erosion, and no synthetic chemicals are applied—natural treatments like herbal teas and compost preparations are used instead. Low yields—~25 hl/ha or less—build concentration on the vine. Harvest is by hand and often quite late by Burgundy standards to achieve phenolic ripeness, though warming has pushed dates earlier into mid-September or even late August in very hot years like 2020. A large, trained picking team allows speed at the perfect moment.
A cultural anchor is UNESCO: in 2015, the Climats of the Côte d’Or (including all of DRC’s vineyards) were inscribed as World Heritage sites, a recognition to which Aubert de Villaine devoted considerable effort. It formalizes that these vineyards are cultural and historical treasures, not merely productive assets. As climate change introduces erratic weather and heat spikes, DRC has quietly adjusted—keeping more leaf canopy for shade in hot years, experimenting with pruning dates—always weighing long-term impacts on the land.
The wines: full portfolio through 2025, plus the rare and the private
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti produces a range unparalleled in Burgundy—not by volume of labels, but by the collective pedigree of each bottling. Every standard release is Grand Cru. As of 2025, the lineup includes eight Grand Cru winesunder the DRC label: seven red Pinot Noir wines (Romanée-Conti, La Tâche, Richebourg, Romanée-St-Vivant, Grands Échezeaux, Échezeaux, Corton) and one white Chardonnay (Montrachet). Additionally, DRC occasionally produces Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru “Cuvée Duvault-Blochet” in select years (a second wine blending young vines from the Grand Crus), and small quantities of Marc and Fine de Bourgogne (brandy spirits) from pomace and lees. There is also the extremely limited internal Bâtard-Montrachet noted earlier—not commercially available.
Winemaking philosophy and technical style: “infusion rather than extraction”
Despite this elite breadth, DRC’s winemaking philosophy is remarkably consistent: the goal is to let each vineyard’s terroir express itself as clearly as possible. Intervention is minimized and tailored to the vintage rather than recipe-driven.
Fermentation choices: whole clusters, but flexible by year
Red wines are fermented with a high proportion of whole clusters (stems included), but the proportion varies by vintage. In cooler, difficult years with less ripe stems, DRC might destem a portion—~50% whole cluster in 2004 is cited—whereas in excellent ripe years they may ferment 100% with stems, such as 1999 or 2005. The intent is structural modulation: stems can provide aromatic lift and longevity, but must be ripe to avoid greenness. Fermentations begin naturally with indigenous yeasts, reflecting the microbiome of each site. Reds are typically vinified in traditional open-top wooden vats.
Extraction is carefully controlled. For decades, cellar master Bernard Noblet (until 2018) sought “a gentle infusion rather than extraction,” aiming for sufficient color and flavor without harsh tannins. The team uses gentle pigeage (punchdowns) or more infusion-style soaks when appropriate. Fermentation temperatures are not excessively high. Total maceration is often around 2–3 weeks, varying by cuvée.
Élevage: new oak as a constant—except where it isn’t
After pressing, wines go to oak for élevage. DRC famously uses 100% new French oak for all Grand Cru wines except Corton, which may see a mix of new and one-use barrels. For the others, brand-new custom barrels—long supplied by Tonnellerie François Frères—are used every vintage. The domaine argues its wines’ intensity can absorb new oak over time, and that always-new barrels provide consistency in impact. These barrels are sold off after one use.
Barrel aging typically lasts around 18 months for reds—sometimes up to ~20 months for Romanée-Conti if it needs extra polish, or slightly less in more forward years. Wines remain on fine lees with minimal racking; lees are seen as protective and enriching, reducing the need for SO₂ and adding complexity. Malolactic fermentation occurs naturally in spring after harvest. The cellar’s cool, humid conditions encourage slow, controlled élevage. Whites (Montrachet, Corton-Charlemagne) are also aged in new oak for around 15–18 months, usually with bâtonnage early to enhance texture.
Bottling, clarity, and fraud prevention
Crucially, DRC does no fining or filtration on the red wines, and only light filtration on whites if necessary. Bottling is by gravity. Because these wines are built for aging, the estate accepts sediment and full texture. Bottling usually occurs in late spring or summer of the second year after harvest.
DRC has also led anti-fraud measures. Starting with the 2010 vintage, each bottle is laser-engraved and equipped with a proprietary bubble-coded authentication sticker, a direct response to high-profile counterfeiting cases involving DRC bottles in the 2000s.
House style: balance, longevity, and a spectrum of terroir voices
Collectively, DRC’s wines are described through balance and longevity—neither ultra-modern nor rustic, evolving subtly over time. Before the 1980s, variability was noted (occasional under-ripeness or less cleanliness). Since the mid-1980s, a concerted drive—under Lalou Bize-Leroy’s influence and continued by de Villaine—pushed consistency. By the 1990s and 2000s, DRC achieved a stride of excellence: intense concentration from low yields and old vines, aromatic complexity enhanced by whole clusters.
Many reds are reserved in youth, not fruit-forward. Tannins are prominent but refined; acidity remains fresh. These are wines meant for long aging—15–20 years is often framed as the moment a DRC Grand Cru begins to show true potential. The 2005 Romanée-Conti or La Tâche, initially dense and closed, is cited as expected to evolve 40+ years.
Stylistic differences reflect terroir: Romanée-Conti (most complex and harmonious), La Tâche (powerful and spicy), Richebourg (rich and broad), Romanée-St-Vivant (elegant and perfumed), Grands Échezeaux (robust and deep), Échezeaux (lively, rustic-charming), Corton (structured, earthy). Yet a family resemblance persists—textural finesse, layered flavors interweaving cherry/blackcurrant with minerality and subtle herb/spice (often sandalwood/Asian spice, attributed partly to stems and soil). Despite full ripeness, DRC avoids overripe extremes, typically 13–13.5% ABV. New oak frames youth with vanilla/toast but integrates; mature DRC is prized for savory complexity—dried roses, truffle, underbrush, sweet spice—rather than overt wood.
Montrachet is similarly defined by restraint and depth: young bottles can be monolithic—massive extract and acidity demanding a decade; with age, bouquet and breadth justify its status.
Cuvée Duvault-Blochet: the structured “second voice”
The Cuvée Duvault-Blochet—produced in select years such as 1999, 2002, 2006, 2008, 2009, 2011…—is a blend of second-pass grapes or young vines from all red Grand Cru vineyards except Romanée-Conti, labeled as Vosne-Romanée Premier Cru. It is intentionally more approachable young, a lighter, fruit-driven bridge while the Grand Crus age. The 1999 Duvault-Blochet is explicitly described as combining elements of all climats, offering a snapshot of the estate in one bottle. DRC releases it only when surplus quality fruit exists; it is not a regular offering.
People and continuity in the cellar
A key human evolution occurred in the 2010s: longtime cellar master Bernard Noblet retired after the 2017 vintage, and deputy Alexandre Bernier took over. The transition was planned to be “seamless,” with no radical style shift expected. Some tasters suggest post-2008 wines show added aromatic energy attributed to biodynamics, though the domaine avoids single-factor explanations, stressing vintage variation and learning curves by climat.
Vintage-by-vintage analysis: the years that structurally shaped DRC
This is not an exhaustive catalog of every year, but a set of structurally significant vintages and patterns illustrating how DRC navigated conditions—because, as the domaine often remarks, vintages are “great teachers.”
1945 — the end of WWII, the end of ungrafted Romanée-Conti.
A legendary Burgundy year with tiny crop and exceptional concentration. For DRC, 1945 was the final Romanée-Conti vintage from ancient ungrafted vines (some said 60+ years old). Only about 600 bottles were produced; it has become one of the most expensive wines ever auctioned—$558,000 for a bottle in 2018. After replanting, the 1947–1951 gap in Romanée-Conti production stands as a unique absence. Other vineyards did produce in those post-war years, but with sparse yields and variable quality: 1947 and 1949 were heatwave vintages yielding rich wines (La Tâche 1947 is renowned), while 1950 and 1951 were more challenging. Romanée-Conti’s renewal set the stage for grafted-rootstock wines from 1952 onward.
1959 — one of Burgundy’s all-time greats.
Ripe, generous wines; DRC’s 1959s—especially La Tâche and Romanée-Conti, as well as Richebourg—are still revered for power and perfume. Many reportedly remain vibrant at 60+ years. The vintage helped reestablish Burgundy’s reputation globally. It was followed by swings: 1960–61 poor, 1962 excellent but small, 1963 a washout—prompting resilience measures, including improvements in drainage and pruning.
1969 — a benchmark after stabilization through the 1960s.
Often cited as classic: Romanée-Conti and La Tâche show fragrance and harmony. Success after up-and-down results affirmed viticultural upgrades (better disease spraying, more rigorous selection). The 1970s included difficult vintages (1972, 1974), a hot 1976 producing robust but sometimes coarse wines, and then a star in 1978.
1978 — a validating monument, small crop, high acid, long life.
Frequently hailed among the 20th century’s best Burgundies: small, concentrated crops with high acidity, and wines of great structure and aromatic intensity. DRC’s 1978s, particularly Romanée-Conti and Richebourg, are legendary and slow-evolving. By then, Lalou Bize-Leroy had been co-director for years, pushing for lower yields and organic methods; while full conversion was not yet realized, fewer chemical inputs and stricter selection helped produce monumental wines, encouraging DRC to sacrifice volume via green harvesting when needed.
1985 — warm, aromatic elegance under newer practices.
A beautiful warm year: 1985 La Tâche is noted as one of the silkiest and most charming on release, aging gracefully. It was among the first vintages fully shaped by early-1980s practices—reduced chemical fertilizers and near-organic viticulture—reflecting Leroy’s influence. The success of 1985 and the excellent 1988–1990 trio suggested the improvements were paying off.
1990 — hot, ripe opulence, and a leadership tension point.
1990 DRCs (especially Romanée-Conti and Richebourg) are opulent and powerful, sometimes earlier-drinking due to lower acidity. It was the last top vintage before Lalou’s departure; controversy flared regarding Leroy’s decision to hold back stock of 1988 DRC for higher prices, contributing to her ouster. 1990 Romanée-Conti became iconic; its market rise has been astronomical—Liv-ex noted ~3000% increase over two decades. Warm conditions foreshadowed future patterns; DRC captured freshness via timely harvest, but some wines (e.g., Echézeaux 1990) showed hints of overripeness, prompting lessons in fermentation temperature and alcohol management.
1991 — frost on April 21, tiny yields, unexpected gems.
A severe frost hit Burgundy on April 21, 1991, decimating yields, especially in Vosne. DRC made extremely little wine, but what it made was concentrated. La Tâche 1991 is famed for surpassing 1990 in some tastings through perfume and balance—born of tiny yields. The year reinforced unpredictability, prompting later consideration of protective measures (wind machines/heaters), though DRC largely relies on traditional responses.
1992–1994 — transition in leadership and weather.
1992: very small, high-quality crop, especially fine for Montrachet.
1993: cool, late, high-acid structured wines; austere yet long-lived.
1994: rainy and poor; DRC did make wine, but it is among the least celebrated, underscoring that not every Burgundy year can be great. From the mid-90s, DRC became more transparent about vintage challenges and sometimes reduced allocations—declassifying more into Marc/Fine or not bottling certain cuvées if standards weren’t met.
1999 — the modern watershed: large crop, high quality, second wine reborn.
A rare combination of very large crop and very high quality. Warm summer and extended season ripened abundant fruit; DRC judged aggressive green harvesting unnecessary and took a calculated risk—vindicated by rich, ripe, voluptuous wines and plentiful bottles. Romanée-Conti 1999 and La Tâche 1999 are cited among all-time greats. High yields enabled the Cuvée Duvault-Blochet 1999 revival, showing willingness to innovate within AOC rules—declassifying Grand Cru juice to Premier Cru—to protect primary labels while offering something special. Its success led to later releases in abundant years (2002, 2006, etc.), and 1999 ushered in a golden era as DRC’s capacity matched the 2000s’ run of good vintages.
2004 — “ladybug taint,” humility, and the power of triage.
A challenging year marked by ladybug taint in Burgundy, giving green, herbaceous off-flavors. DRC largely escaped due to rigorous sorting and slightly earlier picking, but wines were lighter and more herbal than usual. Their reputation for control grew: while some producers made poor 2004s, DRC’s La Tâche and Richebourg, though not powerful, were praised for purity and elegance. Severe triage to eliminate unsound berries showcased commitment not to release flawed wine. De Villaine framed 2004 as a lesson in humility: even with best practices, some greenness could not be entirely avoided. The outcome also underscored the value of biodynamics—healthy vines resisting disease pressure.
2005 — classic greatness, structure, and 100% stems.
Near-perfect conditions yielded immense structure, balance, and concentration. 2005 DRCs are densely packed, “nearly immortal.” Consistency was striking: even Echézeaux 2005 ranks among the best ever from DRC, while Romanée-Conti and La Tâche are monumental. 2005 was another 100% whole cluster year; ripe stems delivered aromatic complexity. Many compare it to 1990 or 1978, stylistically closer to 1978 with firm acid/tannin spine. As of the mid-2020s, the wines remain closed and expected to flourish decades on.
2010 — taut classicism, low yields, and a threat of sabotage.
After plush 2009, 2010 was cooler with very low yields, producing taut, intense wines praised for precision and classicism, higher acidity, and mineral clarity. Low yields resulted from poor flowering and some summer heat spikes; the year exemplifies climate volatility. DRC’s biodynamic practices are credited with helping vines through stressors. 2010 also saw drama: an extortionist threatened to poison the vines; he was caught. Technically, 2010 was the last vintage fully overseen by Bernard Noblet, who later retired after 2017; Alexandre Bernier had been shadowing for years, including through the 2015 release period.
2011 — lighter, forward, and a rare 2010s Duvault-Blochet.
A weaker year (warm spring, cool summer, early harvest). Wines are lighter, more forward, earlier-drinking. DRC made a rare decision to produce Duvault-Blochet in 2011—the only time in the 2010s decade—suggesting some Grand Cru components were tightened by diverting certain lots into the second wine. Even so, quality remained solid and charming.
2015 — heat without imbalance; modern-era legend.
A hot, dry year yielding magnificent wines, likened in some ways to 2005/1990. DRC’s 2015s are lush, ripe, yet fresh—listed as legendary by many. Despite heat, they maintained moderate alcohol and vibrant acidity, attributed to vine age, biodynamics (resilience to drought), and harvesting before overripeness. Richebourg and La Tâche are compared favorably to 2005 with more flamboyance. Montrachet 2015 is also described as extraordinary. After small, cool 2013 and frost-affected 2012, 2015 felt like a return of greatness, intensifying market demand and record en primeur pricing.
2016 — brutal frost on April 27, quality survives, Montrachet nearly absent.
A brutal frost on April 27 devastated parts of Vosne and beyond. DRC suffered significant losses, particularly in Montrachet—almost no Montrachet was made in 2016—plus some reds. Yet the rest of the season was favorable, and surviving grapes produced elegant, fine-boned wines. La Tâche 2016 is praised for perfume and silk, if not 2015’s power. Volumes were down by as much as 50%; DRC employed meticulous work including later pruning and using bougies (smudge pots) during frost nights, though damage could not be fully prevented. 2016 was also the last vintage before Henri-Frédéric Roch’s passing (late 2018); he saw wines in barrel.
2018/2019/2020 — hot-year trilogy and climate adaptation, including August 2020 harvest.
2018: warm and high-yielding; DRC trimmed yields to moderate levels, producing rich, larger-scaled wines—some find them robust with lower acidity; others praise density.
2019: slightly cooler yet warm; outstanding balance of concentration and freshness; some suggest Romanée-Conti 2019 could join the pantheon. 2019 also marks the first Corton-Charlemagne.
2020: hot and very early—harvest began in August for the first time in memory—yet wines are balanced and intense. These years illustrate adaptation: ground cover to preserve moisture, canopy adjustment to prevent sunburn, picking at the optimum moment. Hot-year wines are more immediately fleshy than comparable-age 1990s, yet still show structure and low pH suggesting longevity. Phenolic ripeness is achieved more regularly, making stem inclusion easier; 2018 and 2019were essentially full whole-cluster. DRC has kept alcohols moderate—2018s around 13.5%, not 14.5%.
2021 — frost, mildew, minuscule yields, classical fragrance.
A very cool, difficult year: severe April frost and rainy summer leading to mildew. Yields were minuscule—reportedly the smallest since perhaps 1945 in some vineyards. Yet quality is described as classical and high-toned, lower alcohol (12.5–13%) with piercing fragrance and elegance. Aubert de Villaine observed that climate change has made ripeness “easier” generally, but 2021 was an exception. DRC still produced all wines, albeit tiny quantities, likely using very careful sorting and perhaps slight chaptalisation by a fraction if needed, deftly handled.
2022 — hot, timed rain, abundant high quality, early critical praise.
A hot year with enough rain at key times; abundant, high-quality harvest compared by some to 1990 or 2015. Early reports from barrel samples suggest plush yet balanced wines that may be superb. World of Fine Wine noted “grandeur and regal bearing,” crediting biodynamics for sustaining vine health in heat.
2023 and 2024 harvests — preliminary notes only.
2023: extreme events—hail in some areas though Vosne largely spared; drought then late rain. Challenging, but preliminary indications suggest DRC picked at ideal ripeness before heavy October rain, so wines may be fine if not exceptional.
2024: season still underway or just completed at time of writing; too early to judge, though DRC’s experience positions it to adapt.
A final structural note: DRC often transcends regional verdicts through ruthless selection and vine diligence; in great years it capitalizes fully. External sources often list 1929, 1945, 1959, 1969, 1971, 1978, 1985, 1988, 1989, 1990, 1999, 2002, 2005, 2010, 2015, 2019 among legendary DRC vintages. The estate avoids explicit rankings yet acknowledges singular years such as 1937 (pre-domaine bottling era, but Romanée-Conti and La Tâche are described as mythical), 1945, 1962 (a de Villaine favorite), 1978, 1990, 1999, 2005, etc. It also openly notes omissions: no Montrachet 2016, no Romanée-Conti 1946–51, and no Duvault-Blochet for decades until the 1999 revival.
Technical evolution: precision through simplicity, built over phases
DRC’s technical evolution is a story of evolution, not revolution—often setting trends later followed in Burgundy.
Viticulture: from post-war chemicals to organic (1980s) to biodynamic (2007–2008)
In the early to mid-20th century, DRC farmed like neighbors, using chemical treatments after WWII (copper sulfate, later systemic fungicides) and focusing on yield recovery post-phylloxera; yields in the 1950s–60s were not as curtailed as today. Under Lalou Bize-Leroy’s late-1970s influence, organic farming became a strategic shift—reducing chemicals and encouraging soil life. By 1986, DRC had reportedly eliminated herbicides and worked organically on much land—ahead of most Burgundy estates.
Biodynamics followed. Experiments began in some blocks in the 1990s (after Lalou departed, but her philosophy and broader movement remained). Aubert de Villaine, initially skeptical, became convinced trials improved vine health and terroir expression. In 2007, the entire domaine converted to biodynamics—preparations (compost teas, horn manure, silica sprays) and timing work to lunar cycles. From 2008 onward, 100% of vineyards are biodynamic, certified though not heavily advertised. Technical effects were seen in resilience and more consistent ripening; proponents describe wines of “more tension and complexity.”
Genetics and replanting strategy: massal selection, mosaic vine ages, and closed-loop propagation
Clonal vs massal selection shifted decisively toward massal. Some 1960s replanting may have used higher-yielding clones, but DRC leaned back into its own cuttings. After Romanée-Conti’s 1947–48 replanting, by the 1970s those vines served as a nursery for other vineyards with Pinot Fin. Today DRC operates essentially a closed-loop propagation system, ensuring genetic material uniquely suited to its terroirs. Replanting is incremental: small portions (perhaps 5–10%) are renewed periodically, creating a mosaic of vine ages that buffers extremes—older vines for drought resilience, younger vines for wet years.
Yield management, soil work, and the return of horses
Green harvesting was uncommon before the 1980s; DRC became an early adopter by the mid-80s, dropping fruit to concentrate flavor. Crop load is adjusted by season; in 1999 they judged green harvest unnecessary, while in marginal years they cut clusters to ensure full ripeness. Traditional density remains around 10,000 vines/ha, though there were mentions decades ago of trial rows at higher density, likely concluding classic spacing was optimal.
Soil management became more traditional: horse plowing in the most sensitive plots (Romanée-Conti and La Tâche often) to avoid tractor compaction. DRC avoids irrigation entirely—illegal in Grand Cru and shunned even experimentally. Cover crops are used in some parcels to control vigor and prevent erosion.
Winemaking: selective adoption—cold soaks, presses, hygiene, and longer élevage
Early wines (1930s–60s) likely used full clusters and short fermentations; stems could produce astringency if unripe. By the 1970s, temperature control became available; DRC adopted steadily, introducing cooling mechanisms by the 1980s to enable cold soaks where useful. The length of cold maceration is vintage-dependent.
Pressing evolved: modern DRC uses pneumatic presses, replacing old basket presses, separating free-run and press wine and adding press fractions judiciously. Hygiene and élevage clarity became technical priorities. In the 1970s, some cellars battled brett or spoilage; DRC tightened hygiene, and after any hint of brett in the 1980s, ensured barrels were impeccably clean and used more sulfur at bottling to protect—total SO₂ moderate but effective. Post-1990 wines are generally very pure, with low incidence of brett/oxidation. Barrel aging lengthened slightly: historically 15–18 months; since the 1990s closer to 20 months without racking, clarifying naturally and enabling bottling without filtration.
Equipment upgrades were incremental: late 1990s/early 2000s saw a sorting table with conveyor and perhaps optical assistance (though sorting is primarily by hand). Traditional wooden vats remain, now with modern controls. The winery in Vosne remains modest; by the mid-2010s DRC was planning or constructing a new winery outside the village to accommodate production and storage—unclear if operational yet. Vinification is already done in multiple small lots by sub-parcel or picking date, then blended into final cuvée before barreling or bottling, depending on the case.
Human inputs are part of “tech.” The cellar master change in 2018 (Noblet to Bernier) was designed to be smooth. Vineyard manager Nicolas Jacob has been in place since 2006 (replacing Gérard Marlot by 2008), helping implement biodynamics and potentially investigating techniques to mitigate extreme weather (though DRC tends toward low-tech solutions like pruning strategies; canopy misting or shade cloth has not been publicly reported).
Authentication and logistics: codes, bubble tags, RFID
Technical evolution also includes product integrity. From 2007 vintage onward, DRC started engraving bottle codes. From 2010 onward, it incorporated a Bubble Tag system—unique bubble pattern plus serial number logged in a database. In 2018, DRC introduced RFID chips in cases for track-and-trace. These steps respond to fraud and gray-market pressures and protect authenticity and confidence.
Climate adaptation as technique—and portfolio strategy
DRC has adjusted pruning timing—later winter pruning to delay budbreak and reduce frost risk—and considered drought-tolerant rootstocks when replanting. Aubert de Villaine has said they do not chase extra ripeness, preferring earlier picking at full ripeness to retain acidity. The addition of Corton and Corton-Charlemagne can also be read strategically: cooler positions may buffer warming in Vosne. And top whites diversify against red vintage variation.
The through-line is “precision through simplicity”: DRC avoids technological crutches that could obscure terroir (no micro-oxygenation, no reverse osmosis), instead refining basics—organic/biodynamic farming, hand harvest, careful sorting, whole-cluster native fermentations, new oak, long élevage, no filtration. Critics note that while old wines can be magical, the consistency and purity of the last ~25 years are unprecedented—proof of a deliberate technical arc.
Position within its peer group: benchmark by breadth, not just by one wine
DRC’s position in Burgundy is singular; comparisons are difficult. It is often likened to a First Growth in prestige and influence, yet Burgundy’s structure makes the analogy imperfect. Its peer group is best understood by comparing terroir holdings, scale, historical legacy, and consistency.
Monopole Grand Crus are rare: DRC owns two of the most famous (Romanée-Conti and La Tâche). The only other monopole Grand Cru of similar renown is La Romanée (owned by Comte Liger-Belair). La Romanée is 0.85 ha, smaller than Romanée-Conti, producing exquisite wine, but the Domaine du Comte Liger-Belair is relatively young in its re-established form (started bottling in 2002) and lacks DRC’s breadth. In Vosne-Romanée, Liger-Belair’s wines (La Romanée, Reignots, etc.) and top growers like Méo-Camuzet (Richebourg or Cros Parantoux), Leroy (RSV and Richebourg), and others are discussed alongside DRC—yet none match DRC’s comprehensive Grand Cru set.
Domaine Leroy is the most conspicuous peer. Since the late 1980s, Lalou Bize-Leroy’s own estate has acquired prime parcels (Richebourg, Romanée-St-Vivant, Musigny, Chambertin, etc.) and farms with fanatical biodynamics and ultra-low yields. Critically, Leroy can equal or surpass DRC in certain vintages; stylistically it differs—often denser, more opaque, spice-laden, with no sulfur additions at bottling. Many collectors see Leroy and DRC as twin peaks of red Burgundy—ironically entwined because the Leroy family co-owns DRC. DRC, however, produces more, and it has monopoles that Leroy does not; Leroy’s great parcels share vineyards with DRC holdings.
In scale, DRC’s 28 ha of only Grand Crus is unmatched. Larger domaines/negociants like Faiveley or Drouhin may own similar hectarage including Grand Crus but produce many wines at many levels. DRC’s focus and coherence are unique. Some analogs in model include Domaine Armand Rousseau in Gevrey (prestigious Grand Crus, long ownership, traditional style) though narrower in geography and without white production; likewise Roumier or de Vogüé with singular icons (Bonnes-Mares/Musigny) but narrower scope.
Within specific crus, DRC competes directly:
Richebourg: against Leroy, Anne Gros, Hudelot-Noëllat, Thibault Liger-Belair, etc., and critics often place DRC near the top.
Romanée-St-Vivant: others like Hudelot-Noëllat or Cathiard excel, but DRC is a benchmark and owns the majority.
Montrachet: DRC stands alongside reference points like Marquis de Laguiche (Drouhin) and Domaine Leflaive. In blind tastings, DRC’s Montrachet often vies with Leflaive’s and Ramonet’s, suggesting DRC is among a handful of elite white producers but not necessarily far above—partly because each year’s sample size is tiny.
Production scale is cited as roughly 6,000–8,000 cases annually—small globally, relatively large for top Burgundy. Many peers in quality (Leroy, Roumier, Mugnier) produce half or less. DRC’s breadth of Grand Cru portfolio resembles a Bordeaux-like model more than fragmented Burgundy, contributing to quasi-institutional stature. When the Climats were proposed for UNESCO recognition, Aubert de Villaine was selected as figurehead/co-president—evidence of DRC’s perceived custodianship. While some growers argue aura amplifies fame, critics at times score other domaines’ wines equal to La Tâche in “beauty contests,” yet DRC distinguishes itself through ensemble consistency across many Grand Crus.
Philosophically, DRC aligns with an elite cadre prioritizing terroir expression and traditional methods, eschewing gimmicks—Leroy, Leflaive under Anne-Claude Leflaive (a biodynamic evangelist like de Villaine), d’Auvenay for whites, and others. Even comparisons beyond Burgundy appear—DRC as a region-defining estate in the way Château Musar or Vega Sicilia can embody a place. Still, in Burgundy, DRC stands largely alone.
Market behaviour: assortments, blue-chip liquidity, security tech—and the paradox of rarity
DRC occupies a singular position in the fine wine market: extremely high demand, controlled distribution, and strong secondary-market performance. The estate tries to ensure wines reach genuine connoisseurs rather than pure speculators, though many bottles inevitably become investment vehicles.
Release strategy and distribution: yearly, ~2 years after vintage, via exclusive importers
DRC releases once a year, typically about 2 years after the vintage (e.g., 2021 released in early 2024). Wines are sold en primeur to a global network of appointed importers, usually one exclusive importer per country (examples given: Corney & Barrow in the UK; Wilson Daniels in the US for a long time). Importers allocate to top restaurants, retailers, and private clients, often via long-standing allocations.
A distinctive feature is that DRC typically sells in assortment cases rather than letting buyers cherry-pick. A classic 12-bottle allocation might contain 1 Romanée-Conti, 2 La Tâche, 2 Richebourg, 3 Romanée-Saint-Vivant, 2 Grands Échezeaux, 2 Échezeaux (or similar). With Corton’s addition, some assortments are 11 bottles (often excluding Montrachet, which is extremely limited). The purpose is structural: to ensure less famous wines (Échezeaux, Corton) are also cellared, not only Romanée-Conti or La Tâche, reinforcing the family nature of the range. Some distributors require agreements not to flip wines immediately at auction, though enforcement is difficult.
Pricing: ex-domaine vs market—and intentional restraint
Ex-domaine pricing is high but relatively moderate compared to market value. Example: Romanée-Conti 2005 released at around $3,500 per bottle and later climbed to double or more. DRC historically does not chase secondary-market prices; release prices reflect vintage quality and aim to keep wines accessible to loyal clients. Still, shortages drive markups. DRC withholds library stock for later release or charity auctions, maintaining reserves.
Secondary market: blue-chip stability, investment behavior, and record-setting sales
DRC is consistently present at auctions and exchanges; Romanée-Conti and La Tâche function as blue-chip assets, appreciating steadily with spikes in famous vintages. DRC and top Burgundy have often shown resilience in downturns, sometimes outperforming First Growth Bordeaux on indices—attracting investors. The estate worries about commodification and tries to prioritize restaurants and consumers (e.g., three-star allocations conditioned for lists, not resale). Some importers bundle DRC with other wines to discourage immediate resale. Yet many bottles still reach auctions quickly; Christie’s and Sotheby’s regularly feature DRC lots.
Pricing is among the highest globally. As of the mid-2020s: Échezeaux and Corton in the low thousands (USD) per bottle; Grands Échezeaux and Romanée-Saint-Vivant higher; Richebourg higher still; La Tâche and Romanée-Conti exponentially more. Romanée-Conti often trades in multiple tens of thousands for prized vintages. The extreme remains the RC 1945 bottle at $558k (2018). Even recent vintages like 2015 saw Romanée-Conti at $5k–$10k upon release, climbing thereafter.
Different wines behave differently: Romanée-Conti is so scarce (typically ~500 cases, and one bottle per assortment case) that any availability commands premium. La Tâche, with greater quantity, often serves as bellwether for Burgundy demand. Lesser wines have also surged; what was once relatively “affordable” (Échezeaux, Grands Échezeaux) now costs more than many other domaines’ Grand Crus. The “entry” DRC experience remains expensive; Corton can still be $1000+ on release.
Brand protection: selection, no dilution, and anti-counterfeit measures
Investment culture is a reality: wine funds treat DRC like gold. DRC cannot control aftermarket, but controls volume and release strategy to preserve rarity. Even in higher-yield years like 2018, selection may be tightened to avoid flooding. If second-grade juice could be bottled as a village wine, DRC instead sells it off anonymously or distills it—protecting brand clarity. Packaging remains classic, with rare exceptions (e.g., a special Romanée-Conti release for charity in magnum format).
Counterfeiting is a major issue. The Rudy Kurniawan scandal in the early 2010s—where many fake DRC bottles were sold—was a wake-up call. DRC responded with security measures already described and cooperates closely with auction houses; Aubert de Villaine was known to personally inspect suspect bottles in major auctions. Authentication stickers from 2010 onward reduce risk for recent vintages; for older bottles, provenance is crucial, and DRC encourages trusted sources.
Formats, access, and global allocation shifts
DRC bottles primarily in 750ml, with some magnums and larger formats each vintage—limited numbers often reserved for notable clients or charities—appearing at auction as trophy items. There is no visitor cellar door; one cannot buy at the domaine gate. Sales occur via the established network.
Over the past 20 years, Asia (Hong Kong, China, Japan) has become a major market; allocations likely rebalanced accordingly, and rising Asian demand helped drive auction prices in the 2000s and 2010s. DRC’s cultural cachet in Asia is extreme—Romanée-Conti as status symbol on par with or beyond First Growth Bordeaux—leading to references in films and luxury marketing. Yet the estate avoids overt marketing: virtually no advertising, instead a low profile and selective participation in fine-wine events and guided tastings led by Aubert de Villaine or successors.
Performance in recessions and restaurants: the tension between glass and vault
Historically, DRC prices dipped slightly during recessions (e.g., 2008 crisis, early 2000s dot-com bust) but rebounded quickly. Even during the Covid-19 era, indices showed top Burgundy, including DRC, rising as tangible assets. Liquidity is high; a case can sell quickly via auction or brokerage due to constant demand.
Restaurant presence has changed dramatically. Pre-1990s, DRC appeared on Michelin-star lists at relatively sane prices; today it is rarefied, yet DRC strives to maintain restaurant allocations because the wines should be enjoyed. Three-star restaurants in France or Tokyo may receive yearly allotments, though markups make it a splurge. This keeps DRC in gastronomy, not only auctions.
Charitable and special releases also reinforce mystique: DRC occasionally releases rare bottles for charity auctions (e.g., special bottles for Hospices de Beaune or other causes) and participated in the Duke of Burgundy auction in 2004, where a superlot of DRC sold for triple the estimate.
Ultimately, DRC keeps an official face of discretion and tradition—labels largely unchanged for decades—while innovating behind the scenes through authentication and logistics. DRC wines have become currency in the fine-wine world: tradeable, universally recognized, persistently among the most valuable. The domaine’s hope remains that they end up in the glass. As Aubert de Villaine put it, DRC sees itself as having “the obligation to be one leader” in upholding Burgundy’s Grand Cru mission—leadership reflected not only in quality, but in how rare wines are shared and valued worldwide.
Conclusion: structural strength, real vulnerabilities, and the guiding ethic of humility
Domaine de la Romanée-Conti stands as a unique entity in wine: an estate that over centuries has honed an identity rooted in expressing extraordinary Burgundy terroirs through steadfast excellence. Its long-term identity is shaped by an unparalleled collection of Grand Cru vineyards, continuity of family ownership balancing tradition and measured innovation, and a near-fanatical dedication to practices that prioritize quality over quantity. These strengths have carried it through phylloxera, world wars, and climate change—while growing in stature.
Structurally, DRC’s strengths include monopole holdings (ensuring complete control of Romanée-Conti and La Tâche), significant scale within top Burgundy (enabling estate-wide biodynamics and projects like Corton-Charlemagne), and global prestige ensuring financial stability. The wines combine consistency and distinctiveness: each true to climat, yet even lesser vintages maintain a baseline excellence.
But vulnerabilities are real. The patrimony is fragile—tiny vineyards like Romanée-Conti are “precious but fragile.” A single frost or disease outbreak could slash production or force replanting, and history shows recovery can take a decade. Climate change is a multi-faceted threat: warmer conditions have often helped ripeness so far, but further heat could alter character or challenge freshness. DRC’s commitment to biodynamic/organic methods means it will not resort to synthetic solutions if new pests or diseases emerge—an ethical strength that could become a technical risk under mounting pressures.
Succession is another vulnerability. With Aubert de Villaine retired and Henri-Frédéric Roch gone, a new generation carries great expectations: Bertrand de Villaine and Perrine Fenal are watched closely. Signs point to continuity, but tacit knowledge loss can subtly influence decisions. DRC historically favors evolution over revolution, making dramatic shifts unlikely.
Market stature brings reputational risk: escalating prices and speculation can push DRC toward commodity status, undermining its raison d’être—wine for the table. DRC combats this through restaurant allocations, sommelier engagement, and occasional educational events that keep the legend tangible. Yet the paradox remains: exclusivity is part of the aura, even as it alienates many wine lovers who may never taste the wines.
Looking ahead, constraints revolve around land and legacy. Burgundy is essentially “full”; expansion is unlikely beyond leased additions like Corton. Growth will not be volume, but quality—refining canopy shading, harvest timing, perhaps even trellising or heat-resilient plant material; quietly cooperating with researchers (soil microbiome effects of biodynamics are mentioned, though internal data is not public). The joint family ownership model has proven robust through disagreement and now appears set to continue; neither family has cashed out despite astronomical valuations, reinforcing long-term stewardship.
DRC’s story is extraordinary continuity in service of an ideal: wines of profound character that truthfully reflect terroir. It has confronted financial strain (the 1940s), internal strife (the 1990s), and climate adversity (2016, 2021), responding with openness, adaptation, and renewed commitment to excellence. Its caretakers’ guiding principles—“thoroughness, attention to detail, precision, patience and above all, humility”—remain the estate’s most durable asset. If the past is prologue, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti will remain not a monument resting on laurels, but a living, evolving benchmark of wine excellence.